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I cut my head back to a good surface for the new head gasket. It took .035" to clean it up. Now the timing marks won't line up because the distance from the cam pulley to the crank pulley has changed also. Are there parts like an oversized idler pulley or an offset idler pulley to take up the belt so the marks line up?
Here you go:
https://innomach.com/images/IMS-CATALOG.pdf
I really didn't want to tear it apart again. I am a machinist and was going to make something but thought maybe there was something I could buy to make it easier.
Nothing that I’m aware of….sorry
Thanks. I couldn't find anything on the internet either.
I figured I have 2 options. Either make a bushing fir the idler pulley so I can shift it to take up the difference in length between the cam and crank or cut a new keyway in the crank pulley to correct the alignment.
I’d say do the math and cut the crank gear.
Did you straighten the head first as the cam bore will be warped also if you install the cams with out valves it should spinn with fingers easly and the you can get head shims and will need 2 head gaskets when you mill the head 0.035 that's a lot the belt timing marks will be advanced as belt will be longer and if you have an older belt it will be longer by more you can retard the cams 1 tooth but have no idea if it will run into clearance problems either way being advanced or retarded and then running problems may happen due to cams being advanced retarded or valves hitting the head
I made a bushing for the idler pulley that made the new belt the correct length from the crank to the cam. Cams did spin freely. The distortion was more the shape of a bowl. Outside edges of the head cleaned up within .003 it took that much to clean up the rib between the cylinder pockets.Quote:
Originally Posted by sjcleckley1