Bearings. what a pain.

[DailyDriverMark]

See Last Post.... http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f81/b...15/index2.html

Well, the my drivers side bearing has finally worn out. It's making the typical low growl as you drive down the road. At least this side held on until a more reasonable 116k miles.

I'm worried about trying to get a new bearing installed...
I did a practice removal on an old spindle I have from when the first bearing went bad on the pass. side.

I didn't go all that great.

1st the stupid tool I bought from ebay doesn't seem to have the right attachments for the Aveo.. Its the right Kent Moor j37105. the #3 piece on mine is too big to remove the hub as shown in the repair guides, but luckily I was able to utilize a 7/8 socket. That did the trick.

But part of the bearing seized itself to the hub. I chiseled away at it for an hour bit I couldn't get it to budge. I don't want to get the one thats on the car now, all apart to find the same thing...that would render the car in-op.

[daug1502]

I haven't seen what it looks like to know for sure. But would a heater torch be an option? make sure to move / avoid any rubber or plastic that may be in the area, and warm it up. I have seen it done on other vehicles.

[Daox]

When I change bearings I just take the hubs to a local shop. They press out the old bearings and I give them the new ones to press in. The cost isn't too much (1/2hr labor or so).

[DailyDriverMark]

Thanks for the replies.. I tried some heat... but only from a micro torch.. I don't think it gets hot enough. An acetylene torch would work nice for sure.

As far as bringing the spindle somewhere to have them press it out, great idea. Looking back I should have bought the ball joint separator tool, so I didn't ruin the tie rod on the way out. That probably wouldn't affect the front end alignment which I just got set a few weeks back.

[wylee]

Do you have a bearing separator? I used one about 3 sizes too big, but it worked out pretty well on my Aveo.

I had an inner race seize on a trailer axle bad enough once that I had to use a grinder to cut it off...getting the ticks off me after that roadside repair was almost as bad as changing the bearing.

[DailyDriverMark]

I did the job all day yesterday.. Went ok... But again one race did in-fact stay stuck to the hub.
I took it to a cool engine shop, and they had it separated with a little heat from a torch.

Got it all done nice nice...... The other side is still making noise! Crap! One more to go.. gotta buy another bearing.

[petrified.rabbit]

i might try over tightening the bearing to se if the noise stops first..

[DailyDriverMark]

You mean crank down on the caulking nut some more? I did just get it real good and tight but maybe not tight enough?

[petrified.rabbit]

I remember with VW one of the tricks for bearings was tightening them down more to make them last longer.
The difference in the torque specs was about 3/4 to 1 turn, on a 1.5mm thread so the 2 bearings where .5-.75mm tighter.

[DailyDriverMark]

That's a good tip... While I got that thing on good and tight with the same length cheater bar, there's a chance I'm still not at the 221 ft/lbs of preload.. so I'll give it a couple of tweaks and see what I get.. a good torque wrench is in my future.. hopefully I haven't killed it already going to work and back a few times.

I know I used one of the cheaper bearings on that side. I'm going to use an OEM bearing for the pass side....I can't believe the price! The cheapest is $96+ shipping.. $180+ at advance auto and at the stealership! Napa seems to have some medium priced options.. might try one of those..