2010 Aveo won't start.. No codes

Ok so this is my daughters car that I'm just trying to fix for her. It was running fine today when out of no where is just died on her as she was driving.
The car cranks over just fine, I've tested to spark and each coil is generating spark just fine, I've tested that fuel is getting to the rail and see nothing blocking the air duct from the engine getting air.
I've also looked at all the fuses which all look good and I don't see anything clearly wrong with any relays but then again I'm not even sure how I'd know if one were bad.
What worse is that it's not throwing any codes so I've got no idea where to even begin looking so I'm hoping others on here can help me out, thanks ahead!! :D

How many miles on the car? Last time timing belt was changed? Any other details about what happened surrounding it just "dying" on the road, like noises, etc

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Originally Posted by EAD15

How many miles on the car? Last time timing belt was changed? Any other details about what happened surrounding it just "dying" on the road, like noises, etc

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She claims there was no noise when it quite running and it has 104k and original belt I suspect but I don't know...

Hmm, timing belt is only slightly overdue and the 09 models onward aren't known for failing early. It's still worth checking out though.

You can get access to check by removing 2 10mm bolts from the upper timing belt cover (bolt locations circled below). It's easier to access the rear one if the airbox is removed

Attachment 12142

My money on a broken timing belt. Too bad if that’s what happened, as the 1.6 in an interference engine and it’ll have bent valves too.

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Originally Posted by Eg.h2o

My money on a broken timing belt. Too bad if that’s what happened, as the 1.6 in an interference engine and it’ll have bent valves too.

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I'm expecting it to be broken too.

I hope you're both wrong but it's always possible...

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Originally Posted by Offroadr

I hope you're both wrong but it's always possible...

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I'm sure we both want to be wrong too. There's not many things that cause a sudden shutdown and it sounds like you've ruled out the more benign ones. Please do keep us informed though

Crap, so I just went out and pulled that cover to find this... Belt appears to be in one piece but shredded and most likely cam's have slipped but would that mean motor is toast?


Attachment 12143Attachment 12144

Yikes. Assuming those teal dots are timing marks, it looks like the car jumped time. Bent valves are a near certainty, in my opinion, given the state of the belt and the sudden death on the road

Swap the head with a rebuilt one and motor on.

The question is, is there more damage beyond just the head?

I’d say no. Happens all the time and the rest of the motor is almost always fine. I don’t know of anytime there was more damage than just the head.
Been there myself, bought a full timing kit and a rebuilt head and changed them myself. It’s time consuming, but relatively straight forward. I had to buy a couple of inexpensive specific tools to supplement my tool set to do the job correctly.

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Originally Posted by Eg.h2o

I’d say no. Happens all the time and the rest of the motor is almost always fine. I don’t know of anytime there was more damage than just the head.
Been there myself, bought a full timing kit and a rebuilt head and changed them myself. It’s time consuming, but relatively straight forward. I had to buy a couple of inexpensive specific tools to supplement my tool set to do the job correctly.

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Well that sounds good, mind sharing with me what special tools I'm going to need to get this going. Thanks!!

When you say timing kit, I'm guessing you mean ..
Belt / Head gasket / Valve cover gasket / exhaust manifold gasket / INtake manifold gasket?
What am I missing here?
Kit like this plus the belt?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...444457&jsn=943

Only buy a quality kit, OE GM, Felpro, etc. you only want to do this once, but yes a kit that contains those parts. New head bolts will be needed as they are one time use only. Also a degree wheel is needed to torque the head bolts, and a tool is required to rotate the water pump when tightening the timing belt.
timing belt kit includes water pump, belt, tensioner, pulley, etc. whatever parts are specific to your year car.

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Originally Posted by Eg.h2o

Only buy a quality kit, OE GM, Felpro, etc. you only want to do this once, but yes a kit that contains those parts. New head bolts will be needed as they are one time use only. Also a degree wheel is needed to torque the head bolts, and a tool is required to rotate the water pump when tightening the timing belt.
timing belt kit includes water pump, belt, tensioner, pulley, etc. whatever parts are specific to your year car.

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Just an FYI, but the water pump is NOT in the timing loop from the 09 model year onward (with the ecotec engine). The "double pulley" on the serpentine belt that connects the power steering pump via an additional belt is the water pump

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Originally Posted by EAD15

Just an FYI, but the water pump is NOT in the timing loop from the 09 model year onward (with the ecotec engine). The "double pulley" on the serpentine belt that connects the power steering pump via an additional belt is the water pump

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Ok so I don't need some funky special tool for this then other than the degree wheel for the head bolts?

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Originally Posted by Offroadr

Ok so I don't need some funky special tool for this then other than the degree wheel for the head bolts?

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Service manual says you need a special tool for removing the water pump pulleys (EN-49201) but I paid someone to replace my timing belt and water pump for me when mine was due so I don't know how much it's really needed. You can find them relatively cheap on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/p/671383366

Edit: Here's a discussion regarding the water pump+tool on the LXV engines. Also talks about the timing kit they used

https://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f76/...t-brand-23419/

Thanks folks...
Does anyone know if one of those Chilton repair manuals will cover the step by step for these repairs for me? I've got a pretty solid grasp on what to do here but I don't want to miss anything, only want to do it once and be done with it.

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Originally Posted by Offroadr

Thanks folks...
Does anyone know if one of those Chilton repair manuals will cover the step by step for these repairs for me? I've got a pretty solid grasp on what to do here but I don't want to miss anything, only want to do it once and be done with it.

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Not sure about the Chilton Manuals, but I use this site for access to the service manual. It's not the best in terms of layout or ease of use, but it gets the job done once you learn how it works

https://www.eautorepair.net/

Ok so so maybe I'm being a little naive here but I'm hoping that maybe my head is fine, what's the likely hood of this?
THat said, I've pulled the belt which was not completely broken but it was quite torn up and I'm quite certain the cam's were out of sync. However, I'm able to turn them with no nasty sounds or grindy/crunchy noises coming from the motor internally.
Here's a few pics of things, a couple showing where the cam's were before I aligned them "I think" ( that's actually something else I need to verify somehow, how do I know where to have those cam's and when I'm at TDC?)
In the one pic labled cams aligned I've also got the crank aligned with the timing mark on the crank and the block. I'd love to just slap on a new timing belt and be done with it :) any chance that's an option?
Attachment 12148Attachment 12149Attachment 12150Attachment 12151

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Originally Posted by Offroadr

Ok so so maybe I'm being a little naive here but I'm hoping that maybe my head is fine, what's the likely hood of this?

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0%

I bet you will find valves bent open when you remove the head, and you can’t tell by rotating the cams.

mine failed at idle and had 9 bent valves.

so took head to a local machine shop and sure enough found 4 bent valves..
going to cost $375 to recondition the head...
now i just hope i can figure out how to put it back together

Take your time, it’ll be fine.

Just a quick additional update here. I just picked up the head from the machine shop that I took it to and good news bad news good news is there was actually no band valves so the head was perfectly fine but sadly that's also the bad news because that means I did all this work for pretty much nothing at it cost me $500 versus an $80 belt

So cams were removed/replaced by the machine shop now i need to realign/time them.. anyone have notes for doing this on an LXV motor?

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Originally Posted by Offroadr

So cams were removed/replaced by the machine shop now i need to realign/time them.. anyone have notes for doing this on an LXV motor?

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Did they remove the sprockets from the camshafts? If they didn’t, then it’s just a matter of lining up the timing dots on the sprockets and locking both the sprockets and the cams themselves. (When I replaced my timing belt, I ordered a complete locking tool kit to ensure that my engine stayed in time, the tool kit I used was a German BGS kit, part number 8697) if they did remove the sprockets, the picture in my factory service manual shows the sprocket drive slots on the camshaft in a horizontal position.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...425861c6a6.jpg


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My 2008 Aveo(low miles) would start all of the time, then most of the time, then some of the time, then not at all, no codes, would turn over fine. A buddy of mine who is a mechanic told me to try the Cam shaft sensor. I got one online for like $11. It was a quick 20 minute fix. Just one bolt below the oil filter. Fired right up. No issues since; changed it about 3 months ago. Hopefully this helps.

air pressure test wudda confirmed bent valves or not, without pulling head, just guessing here, water pump bearing failure culprit , timing locking tool, crank mark 6:00....cam marks half tooth off up/down between both pulleysAttachment 12259search tool this site , full gasket set cheaper than buying those needed separately , check coolant for oil contamination , if so, not from head gasket, oil cooler aka oil filter housing, prone to oring failure at 70k miles, good time to replace oring, thermostat and housing replace if plastic versions, check ALL coolant hoses as they are NOT oil resistant , epic blowout if ignored

Attachment 12260Attachment 12261 oil cooler

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Originally Posted by viciousvîc

Attachment 12260

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what brand and part number is that cam kit? Is it aveo specific?

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bottom of page is info....or search...TIMING.... under maintenance & troubleshooting ....halfway down is, failing.... ........other searches timing tool, my posts, timing belt,

just chekn n, you made newsletter, get ur timing belt issues solved? mark on crank 6:00, cams 3&9 o'clok basically one tooth below one tooth above, or just enough to be NOT even, if your getting one at 11:00 thats way to far off, 3 & 9 i got my cam tool from amazon..BETOOLL HW8014 CAM LOCKING TOOL mine is '09 so i 'm not sure it will fit, has rear gear lock if sprocket locks dont work, crank/flywheel lock, set gears to marks forget belt marks, belt will be very tight on right going to cam, left side has tensioner/water pump rotation to set tension, i think, '09 has serpentine belt , sounds like ur on right track, cept counting belt teeth is where your going wrong. mark cam pulleys 3 & 9 and dont let move from there more than half tooth, good luck everyone has first. it was my first twin cam, kicked my azz, three days trying to figure how locking worked, then BOOM IT JUST DID, gears off just tooth from eachother belt was tighter than, ah, u no, gotta do it again in 60k miles...not sure what else it fits, audi or foreign job, pin for tensioner , bar back end cams when adj. phasers, never figured out crank lock, removing bolt ? inserting lock pc. has to be ring gear on flywheel somewhere, i didnt want to start removing bolts to find out...utube video has great one showing tools guy did good job except for crank pc. good luck ..becareful of crank gear it will move, seems like couple teeth to play with before TDC, dbl ck. ALL marks before first full rotation with ratchet, pull plugs, nuetral,if you locate crank lock location i wud appreciate that pc. info....