2008 Aveo, auto trans, went into "limp mode" not allowing acceleration over 10km/hr.

[OliviaRose]

Good day: I find myself in a sticky situation. Two days ago I fired up my 2008 Aveo and while it did start, the engine sounded absolutely horrible. I mean REALLY horrible. But it kept running so I took a chance and tried to get to my mechanic's shop which is quite close by. The car would not accelerate over 10km/hr: it was a nightmare. Made it to the shop and fortunately he was there. He heard the engine and came out to see what was making the unholy racket. Hi: me again, says I. He rummaged in the engine in a spot right in front of the passenger front seat and said that's where the defective part is located. He retrieved a diagnostic thingy that he plugged into the car somewhere and managed to get it backed out onto the road where he drove it about for a very short while. LOTS of very loud engine revving happening. LOTS of really fast forwards and reverses. And quite quickly the engine sounded normal again. So he popped by with my car and we chatted while it idled beautifully. The tool thingy he plugged into my car recalibrated it or something close to that. I can't recall the name of the part but he informed me it will cost about $300.00 just for the part. And he told me that his diagnostic tool informed him that my car had been running in "limp mode". I believe the part it needs has something to do with a choke? Or fuel regulation? I was pretty upset as I can't afford a more expensive car at this point so my memory of the part name disappeared very quickly. Plus the mechanic suggested I drive it off a cliff....But the theory of it seems to me to be related to the automatic choke function of the car and the function of controlling the idle/fuel supply rate while the thing is running. I hope I'm explaining this at least half way clearly. And this afternoon when I cautiously fired it up it seemed to me to be idling much faster than it used to (pre-limp phase). However, it did allow me to pick up groceries this afternoon for which I am thankful. One odd thing I noticed after my mechanic had messed with it and did his temporary fix was that the automatic transmission gear shifting was a lot smoother than pre-limp phase. Odd but true and quite noticeable for me to have picked up on it. So my question is: 2008 Aveo, 158,000km, I drive less than 2000km per year. My mechanic does not think it's worth repairing. I'm stuck as a car is necessary where we live (no public transit) and I don't know what to do. I'm retired and have limited funds for a different car. My mechanic doesn't want me to keep throwing money at it. So is it worth repairing? And does anyone have any experience with this particular issue? I've never had a limp car before. Check engine light has been on and off (mostly on) for years; clock doesn't work 99% of the time (haha) so we figured it was just an electrical glitch. There is a kill-switch on the battery that is working brilliantly for over a year now as something will drain the battery if I didn't drive it for a few days (which is my normal rate of driving). So cheaper for the kill-switch than trying to find the electric short and I'm happy with it. So, here I sit feeling pretty tense trying to decide what to do. I'm inclined to have the repair done so at least I can sell it or hopefully drive it for a while longer. Help!!!
Best regards

[sjcleckley1]

What was the code possible throttle body or air leak or like I said what are the codes I Had a 2008 had no money also but I have some god given skills and tools was able to work on it my self and drove it 480,000 miles had to replace the trans at 380,000 pion bearing was shot there are a few things that should on a car belts hoses and water pump timing belt wheel bearings be regular maintained for my self I bought an autel MaxiAp 200 for 35.00 there 60.00 now but a good investment you can read codes program keys and see live data it's bluetooth so you need a smartphone also but worth while and if you want to find the circuit that causing the drain disconnect the battery and then put a small light bulb between the battery post and terminal connector you might have to play with the wattage and pull fuses/relay it will get dimmer when you have eliminated a circuit that is using power unless you have a amp meter I had no problems with battery drain but had my instrument lights and right side running and tail lights go out and that was a bad connection in the buss connection in the fuse box in the engine compartment right side about 2 inches long sort of milky color standing if front of car but left if setting in car

See if you find out the codes

Also when you disconnect the battery you reset/clear/zero all learned values Throttle Body Crank Position Sensor Fuel Trim and when started after a battery disconnect/reconnect buy letting it idle till the radiator fan comes then putting it in every gear for say 30 seconds back to neutral/park the do that again with the AC on from my experience my car was not that bad it was not paying attention to things in fact I bought another one 2009 Pontiac G3

Things that you will replace wheel bearings alternator belts and tensioner timing belt and componets

[OliviaRose]

Yes, I stopped by my mechanic's shop yesterday and he was closed for the day so I'll try again when I have a chance. Interesting about the battery disconnect reset: I do recall being told that earlier but can't recall what the problem was at the time.... The AC doesn't work; there's a leak somewhere. My mechanic filled it and had it running for about 20 - 25 minutes on a horribly hot day. He dropped the car off at my place and I took it out: the AC worked for about 3 minutes. A cruel outcome on such a hot hot day! So not worth looking for the leak. I use the sun roof a lot and I love it. I will do what you recommend about letting it idle and putting it in every gear for say 30 seconds back to neutral/park the do that again with the AC on. I don't think it's a bad car at all, I've had to do very little work to it over the years. I might have owned it for as long as 10 yr now, maybe a bit less. I'll forward your comments to my mechanic for his information. I received good advice on this forum with regard to rapid door lock recycling and it was repaired and has never happened again. Had to replace the power steering belt so far and buy a new battery (before the kill switch was installed), fix the door lock rapid recycling issue and tires but that all seems to me to be normal wear and tear on a 2008 car. I don't have a cell phone at this point so can't do your test using one. At this point, one week after the car went into limp mode, it's been starting and running very well. As I mentioned earlier, the gears are changing much more smoothly than before my mechanic did whatever it was he did to it to get it out of limp mode. He reset something from what I've been reading online. I read that I should check the fluid levels: oil and transmission fluid so I'll do that. I'll try and get the codes from him and let you know. Thanks so very much for your help! Talk to you again.