2006 Remote Hood Release Cable. Slack or Broken, Advise.

Ok. I saw 2 other posts about the hood release being broken, but no answer on how to fix it. OR can this cable be adjusted if it isn't broken?

Is it a do it yourself job or a $1K repair or a $10 repair? Can anyone give answers. Mine is I assume slack. It took 4-5 pulls today to get it open, so it is not broken, is this cable adjustable, it does feel loose. I have no idea how to find it, let alone fix it.

So can it be totally bypassed and just use the latch in the hood/grille area to pop the hood? Why the remote pull is even there I dont understand. Who is going to steal anything in this engine? I got an alarm anyway.

So at 14yr old, can I bypass it totally and just pop the hood with the metal latch above the grille? OR is there a kit somewhere to buy to replace it? Anyone have some info, PLEASE.

Hi Flaveo,


It’s been a while but I had mine stick as well, I believe the release plate is spring loaded.
Get in there with some penetrating oil and get it free’d up. Activate it a few times from inside the car after you spray it (hood up) then clean it off and get some lithium or silicone grease in the assembly to keep it lubricated and protected.
Don’t recall if it’s adjustable, but once it’s operating again you should be fine and cable tight.


And definitely not a good idea to drive around with the hood slightly up so you would have access to the release lever.




Cheers

I thank you for the reply. I was thinking of trying that in the morning. I thought there would be a way to just disable this 'remote release' and just close and open the hood with the lever that is the MAIN lock on the hood. This remote thing is a second 'lock'. I did look it up. It is redundant. So it wouldn't be 'locked' from the inside, but who is going to want to steal anything in an Aveo engine bay?? I looked up buying a new latch system and of course it is one of the most expensive hood release cables out there. Not one of the cheap ones, it runs like $45. Plus install. I cant take off the wheel and the inner fender well cover myself and money is super tight now. So I hope the cleaning and lube will make it work again. It is 'slack/loose',not broken...yet.

Mine was the same, went to open the hood and the release inside the cabin came forward and stayed there, moved it a few more times and the hood finally popped.
I think I moved the locking plate with a screwdriver through the hole after I sprayed/oiled it to get it moving again, I was afraid of snapping the cable until it moved a little.

cheers

Well I have cleaned the latch/lock with brake cleaner spray, and then lubed it with WD-40,only thing I have. It now works perfectly. I would prefer to bypass it totally, but until someone tells me if it can be done, and how, i am going to be open the hood as little as possible. OR till I get $100? to have a mech. put in a new one. I assume that light be enough. The part is $45. So $55 for the so called 'easy install'??

Hi Flaveo,

Glad it worked out.
Keep the mechanism lubricated and you should be fine.
Make sure you get some grease in there as it’ll give a nice layer of protection from moisture/air.
Im partial to silicone grease my self but that’s me.

No reason to worry about the cable unless it is damaged/frayed .


Cheers

no damaged that i know of, but, i will be a lot mreo careful pulling the release.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FlaAveo5

Well I have cleaned the latch/lock with brake cleaner spray, and then lubed it with WD-40,only thing I have. It now works perfectly. I would prefer to bypass it totally, but until someone tells me if it can be done, and how, i am going to be open the hood as little as possible. OR till I get $100? to have a mech. put in a new one. I assume that light be enough. The part is $45. So $55 for the so called 'easy install'??

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WD-40 is not a lubricant; its a water displacement/penetrating oil; it will wear off very soon. Use either white lithium grease or some type of thin lubricating oil.

And if you had to replace the hood latch cable, its quite easy. I did one on a previously owned 2003 Honda Civic; its just a matter of snaking the cable from the the interior, through the firewall, along the fender, and to the latch assembly.