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So I busted a stud off on my front wheel hub while rotating the tires, and since it's only a 4 lug hub, I thought I'd better replace it . In addition I have over 170k miles on the car, so I'm thinking I should go ahead and change the front wheel bearing as well. Did some research and can't tell if the knuckle needs to be removed also. Can some one shed some light on this for me ?
Thanks in advance
Whitefish posted a nice write-up a few years ago on his DIY hub removal tool. So if you really want to keep the knuckle on the vehicle, that's the way to go (or you can buy the Chevy bearing tool for $125). I read another one from a guy who spent 2 hours messing with a slide hammer, so that didn't sound like a very good method.
I chose to remove the knuckle/hub, which is really easy on our Aveos. After the knuckle was off the vehicle, I drove the hub out using a socket, and then used a bearing adapter set for the remaining 3 steps. All of that work was quick and painless on both sides, and if you have a press it should be even easier.
The worst part of this job (by far) for me were the rusted-in-place snap rings. It took around half an hour each to work those rings free, because they were completely locked in place with rust all the way around. Lots of LW, along with poking and prying gradually worked them free one small section at a time. I'm not sure if industrial strength, heavy duty snap pliers would free the rings or just bend them, but I don't own professional pliers like that anyway.
I removed the rings on a workbench, and frankly can't imagine doing it hunched down low if the knuckle is still on the vehicle. Depending on where you live in Va, your Aveo may or may not have the rings rusted in. If they're not badly locked in place, this entire job should be really quick and easy for you (assuming you have an adequate bearing tool).
One other tool I'd HIGHLY recommend, if you don't already have one, is a separator like the one below, for the LCA and tie rod end. I wasn't completely confident a low priced tool like this would be sturdy enough, but after using it a few times it seems to be well made. However I still cover it with a small blanket while torquing, just in case it did ever explode. Pickle forks work but usually destroy the joint, and hitting the knuckle with a hammer is primitive when compared to a separator like this one.
Abn Universal Ball Joint Separator | eBay
Thanks for the info.... I see now...Correct me if I'm wrong. The wheel bearing is in the knuckle, and not the hub on my Aveo. I'll start by just removing the hub using a hub removal tool and look how bad the snap rings look.
Technically the bearing is located in between, with the outer race 'attached' to the knuckle and the inner race 'attached' to the hub. When the hub is pulled or driven out of the knuckle, the bearing remains in the knuckle. Then the snap ring is removed from the knuckle and the bearing gets pressed out of the knuckle.
However, the inner bearing race may come out with, and still be attached to the hub. In that case you'll need to carefully cut the race partially through with an angle grinder or Dremel, and then split it open with a cold chisel. Once it's split, it will easily come off the hub. I had one race attached to the hub, but the other side stayed with the rest of the bearing in the knuckle.
So you already own a tool that will pull the hub out of the knuckle while still on the vehicle? If so, you might help others by posting the make/model and how much it cost you. I couldn't find any reasonably priced hub removal tool when I did this job last year (slide hammers excluded), but maybe I missed seeing the tool you own. Or are you planning on building a tool, similar to what whitefish did?
Tools 27037 Front Wheel Drive Wheel Bearing Hub Puller | eBay
This is the tool I plan to buy off Feebay to pull the hub off. If I understand you correctly, I may have to replace the bearing anyway if the bearing seperates
Given the reasonably low cost of a bearing, I'd plan on replacing it regardless if it separates or not.
I'm not sure about that tool you posted. I think more of a bridge is needed, but have no first or second hand experience with it, so I'll just provide a couple of references to a couple of other things that might help figure out if that one will work or not.
Here's the tool that Chevy mechanics supposedly use to work on Aveo bearings:
Kent Moore Tool J 37105 Front Hub Bearing Puller Remover Tool Set | eBay
And here's the DIY tool from whitefish, if you have not already seen it:
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f94/h...-bridge-14248/
Quote:
Originally Posted by avguy
Thanks for your time and input avguy.....Is it true, that there is a snap ring on both sides of the bearing ?
One more thing...Was it difficult putting the splined hub back on the steering axle ? I don't believe one wants to pound it on and damaging the seal or bearing in the transfer case.
There is one snap ring per knuckle, and one was way more than enough in the case of my Aveo. But in contrast to those RPITA snap rings, the hub came out, and went back into the axle as smooth as silk. Nothing more than a bit of a wiggle, and a pull/push with my hands. Don't know if that's always the case, but it was on both sides of mine.
Finally found a good YouTube video avguy on replacing the front bearings, and you were right on. As soon as he pulled the hub off, the race of the bearing came with it and the ball bearings were falling out all over the place. I believe I got a good handle on what it takes now, so I'll get my tools and parts in place before I begin. This video showed replacing the bearing with the knuckle still attached to the car. Also he pressed the bearing out towards the transaxle and I'm wondering why one couldn't pressed them out outwards. Anyway, I believe I'm going to remove the knuckle on mine. Replace the struts and top strut bushings as I know they are all worn out as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by avguy
Again, thanks for having your ear on this matter....
Wow - I don't understand that one at all. There's an inner lip cast into the knuckle, about half the width of the outer bearing race, that serves as a bearing stop. When the bearing is pressed back into the knuckle, it stops moving when it hits this lip, resulting in automatically correct repositioning in the knuckle. So it's a mystery to me how he could have moved the outer race past that lip. Anyway, pressing the bearing out away from the transaxle worked for me, and will for you as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by djmarch
I didn't want to say 'my way or the highway' earlier, but since you've decided that on your own, I'll say now that there's no doubt in my mind that it's the best way to go :thumbup:Quote:
...I believe I'm going to remove the knuckle on mine....
Glad to be able to help, and it's nice to have a DIY conversation instead of never seeing even a single reply from the OP (which happens far more often than not). And like with most of this stuff, I'm just paying forward what I learned by reading what other folks had already done.Quote:
...Again, thanks for having your ear on this matter....
In this video avguy, the knuckle has a snap ring on both sides to retain the bearing. I believe that's how my 04 is set up.Quote:
Originally Posted by avguy
Well, that's new information for me, and it's interesting that there are 2 different knuckle designs - one with a snap ring on the transaxle side and the other with a built-in lip in that location. And a quick look at Rockauto confirms that there are multiple OEM knuckle part numbers listed in the cross reference. Seems like they decided to get rid of one of the snap rings after originally using 2 of them. That certainly makes sense to me because there's no need for 2 rings.
The knuckle having the lip provides enough clearance for the right sized adapter to catch enough of the outer race to press out the bearing. You'll need to find out if the snap ring also allows this, or if that ring needs to be removed in order be able to contact enough of the outer race. If the rings on yours aren't rusted in place, it will become a non issue and both of the rings will be easily removed. Fingers crossed on that!
One more thing avguy. I have a 1/2 breaker bar and a pipe. I wish I had a 3/4. Did you have any problems using 1/2 ? Or did you use a 3/4 ?Quote:
Originally Posted by avguy
For the axle caulking nut, a 1/2" bar with a long pipe all the way over it worked fine for me. And you'll also need to have a beefy torque wrench capable of 221 ft lbs for the reinstall of that nut.
10/4 there good buddyQuote:
Originally Posted by avguy
Just putting this out there I tried to do a bearing job and after pounding with a slide hammer getting the hub off for hours and the auto stores around here didn't have the tools I needed to rent I broke down and took the knuckle to a auto shop that does bearings.
35 bux to press out the old and in with the new, and after looking at the cost of the tools needed to buy which at best would only use once for the life of the vehicle it just wasn't worth it.
Been there, done that...Had a slide hammer as well, and the hub would not come out. Finally removed the knuckle completely, and with my front bearing removal kit I found on Ebay on the cheap, made the job much easier. For the other side I removed the knuckle, (only 4 nuts), at the start, and it cut my time in half.Quote:
Originally Posted by RBRx
Paying someone to press out bearings and races makes a lot of sense sometimes, depending upon what they charge... I had to do U-joints in my 3/4 ton diesel pickup, and the driveline shop near my house charges $15 a U-joint to press out and press in... $30 bucks for both was money well spent.