Replacing CV axels on 2006 Manual transmission

Hello, I pulled out my driver side cv axel this afternoon and was preparing to install the new one after comparing with the old. They appeared identical, I double checked the part number for the correct specs, (Manual transmission, left side, w/o ABS. Everything was fine and dandy until I trid to insert the transmission end in to the opening. It went in about 1/2 an inch and then stopped. I could not get it to accept the shaft. I triple checked the axel, again comparing it to the old one, same number of splines, same length shaft. This time i decided to push a little. Bad idea. It went a little further and then got stuck. It took me another hour to remove the new cv axel which I ended up damaging and had to order another. I cannot find a repair manual and I am waiting for the new part to arrive and I would love to know what i did wrong. If anyone has an answer please speak up! I also need to do the passenger side once im finished with the driver side and I noticed a foam or rubber sleave of sort on the old shaft but not on the new one. Does anyone know what this is? Thank you.

-Sal

Wow, what a horribly frustrating learning experiance! I had to remove the axle twice on the driver side as I accidentally over extended the axle after replacing the ball joint. This causes the 6 ball bearings inside to fall out of their cage and requried me to go to a local mechanic to re assemble it. He is a great guy and only charged me 10 bucks. This was a huge relief considering that none of my local part stores could get one for three more days. He also gave me the option of ordering a new one from his supplier for the price that i paid a remanufactured one and no core charge. I managed to re install the driver side on my third attempt, making sure to heavily grease the splines and the retainer clip which helps center it during insertion into the transmission. The most effective way I found to place the axle was to disconnect the sway bar connector link, strut tower, ball joint and leave the hub connected to the tie rod end for easy installation. making sure to first reattach and fasten the nut on the ball joint( this required a pickle fork to remove by the way) then the strut tower bolts, the cv washer and nut(tighten with a ratchet to pull on to the slines) and lastly the sway bar connector link which is much easier if you take a second jack, (the one included with your spair worked great) and lift the control arm up so that you can connect the top bolt of the link. then tighten everthing back up, re install the wheel. Lower to the ground and use a torque wrench and torque the cv axel nutto 210 LBS. The driver side leaks some transmission fluid when you remove it but the passenger side didn't. You will have to top it off while its running when you are finished using synthetic 75w85 gl4. expensive stuff, couldnt find it anywhere but the dealer. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Wow, sorry i missed the first post, but it sounds like you got it sorted out.

Its interesting that the new cv can fall apart that easily, I have really stressed some styles of used ones and never had that issue, usually only the ones that fall apart are the ones you need to replace.

Yes interesting, but most of all aggrivating! I didnt happen to read the warning about over extending the axel until i found a small piece of paper in the box when returning the first one. as for used ones the factory one did the same thing during removal, the retainer clips require some major coaxing to come out in my case the passenger side especially. And I'm not sure if i mentioned it in my last post, but NEVER remove both axels at the same time. This can result in gears falling inside the transmission. Work one side, re assemble and then move onto the other side. It may not occur on our little aveos, but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way, which is how I learn most of the time ;)