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Yeah hit the sidewalk the other day with my rear wheel (doing fishtailing on parking lot, totally my fault) and now its out by about 30 degrees and I am just terrified do not know what to do! I google and find out it most likely gonna be dmg on lateral track bar. Anyone knows what figure are we looking at and any type of info will be appreciated.
i just happen to.. ah pictures:
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/7...00209at406.png
thats a complete rear "lateral track bar" as you call it. we just call it rear beam or rear axle.
its very possible you just bent the stab axle, which you can get for > $50 shipped on ebay
the complete assembly is on the once in a while too.
but i would suggest an alignment rack, and measurement of a frame machine, but not sure about the measurements within the bar on the frame machine, but i would want to verify the mounting points were not flexed.
edit imageshack is running slow? picture might not load?
its url: http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/7345 ... 9at406.png
Can you plz point out (circle in red) stab axle on the picture.
If it is rear beam how much are we looking at? Including a labor...
ps:
I am really surprise its one solid piece of pipe for the rear wheels :cry:
damn that sucks, hope you get it fixed cheaply
stub axle is inside the drum brake so i cannot circle it. its the spindle the wheel and brakes ride on..
there is nothing wrong with a solid rear axle like that, honestly. cars with the solid rear perform just as well handling on the track, the driving characteristics are slightly different though.
you can buy a rear beam used for $300 on ebay, shipping will kill you though, i expect it to be $400-500 at a local yard. but new bare axle from gm is $470.. (notchback is $672 but its the same bar?)
figure 2-3 hours to swap, 2 hours for brake work and bleeding and then an alignment..
a stub axle is $104 new from gm, and would be likw 2 hours total, plus an alignment..
or if you really screwed it up you will need both, in that case get the used axle put in.