Oil Drain plug? Really?

i went to do my first oil change on my aveo since i got it in Sept. i usually just let the dealer do it but i m short for cash lately. I bought the oil and the filter (which took me 3 places to actually find) and when i jacked her up to get a look underneath, i noticed that there isnt a bolt head for a drain plug. It looks like the drain plug is a torx head screw??? really? I dont own torx bits, and it looks like the ****ing dealer stripped the screw anyways?!?!? really? Is this REALLY my oil drain plug??? and can i replace it with a Bolt head drain plug from like a colbalt or something? does anyone have any insight to this?

you can match it up and replace it, but the bolt head ones tend to get stripped just as fast anymore.

a replacement was like $3-4 though..

How would a guy removed a torx bit oil plug that's been stripped out? I just went to go do my oil and not only did the bolt get stripped, but it's in there really good.

did you use a T-45? because I've changed my oil several times, and I have not stripped the Drain Plug at all.

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Originally Posted by festersays

How would a guy removed a torx bit oil plug that's been stripped out? I just went to go do my oil and not only did the bolt get stripped, but it's in there really good.

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If doable, get a dremel then just make a flathead able to be used in it, that's what I do for most stripped screws/bolts

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Originally Posted by festersays

How would a guy removed a torx bit oil plug that's been stripped out? I just went to go do my oil and not only did the bolt get stripped, but it's in there really good.

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It's not likely that it's stripped. Make sure you have the proper size torx bit - one that is an attachment for a 3/8 drive ratchet wrench. Tap on the bolt first with a hammer to loosen it. Add leverage to the ratchet if necessary to break it loose.

Mike, I have done that before, however in this situation that suggestion is very bad. Many dealers and oil change places really torque those bolts down. Try vice grips first +penetrating oil. If that doesn't work, then use a screw extractor. If that doesn't work, then get someone to weld a bolt onto it and impact it off. That's always the order I use for stuck/stripped bolts

Edit:although as others has said it probably isn't stripped. Its quite hard to strip a torx head.

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Originally Posted by Pickles

Mike, I have done that before, however in this situation that suggestion is very bad. Many dealers and oil change places really torque those bolts down. Try vice grips first +penetrating oil. If that doesn't work, then use a screw extractor. If that doesn't work, then get someone to weld a bolt onto it and impact it off. That's always the order I use for stuck/stripped bolts

Edit:although as others has said it probably isn't stripped. Its quite hard to strip a torx head.

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more than likely, he's stripping out the torx bit he is using due to it being the wrong size. as I mentioned in my earlier post, the torx bit he SHOULD be using is a T-45, and the hex head on the filter cartridge cover is 15/16".

Yes, very true. Although I think the filter boot thing is 3/4 not 15/16. Although I'm not 100% sure

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Originally Posted by Pickles

Yes, very true. Although I think the filter boot thing is 3/4 not 15/16. Although I'm not 100% sure

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I just checked on my cartridge cover, and 3/4 was WAAAAAAY too small, and 15/16 was nice and snug with no slop.

Ok, as I said I wasn't completely sure. Im probably due for an oil change sometime soon. The light hasn't came on yet though, and I did a full synthetic change

Sorry I didn't check this thread sooner, but I was for sure using a T-45 in there. I tried hammering the torx bit in there to make sure I had it in the butter zone, and gave it a go. I got it to turn just a bit, but after that it just spun right out. Got the rattle gun on it, and that spun the torx bit right around in there, with it in tact and the drain plug looking pretty sloppy lol. I think welding a bolt on and giving that a go may be the best way here, unfortunately.

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Originally Posted by festersays

Sorry I didn't check this thread sooner, but I was for sure using a T-45 in there. I tried hammering the torx bit in there to make sure I had it in the butter zone, and gave it a go. I got it to turn just a bit, but after that it just spun right out. Got the rattle gun on it, and that spun the torx bit right around in there, with it in tact and the drain plug looking pretty sloppy lol. I think welding a bolt on and giving that a go may be the best way here, unfortunately.

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An easier approach might be to use an EZ-out (bolt extractor). Bang on the plug with a hammer, then insert the EZ-out and apply torque to it.

I have a much more complicated, expensive, time consuming way to do this, just buy a complete oil pan, then it wont have a stripped out bolt in it....

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Originally Posted by USAFzac

I have a much more complicated, expensive, time consuming way to do this, just buy a complete oil pan, then it wont have a stripped out bolt in it....

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That sounds like the solution the U.S. government would use, with an unlimited budget, where cost is no object.

Better yet, why not just replace the whole car? :rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by USAFzac

I have a much more complicated, expensive, time consuming way to do this, just buy a complete oil pan, then it wont have a stripped out bolt in it....

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no, that option is only viable if the Threads in the Oil pan are shot after the Stripped drain plug is forced out.

yes, oil plug stripped? new car time!

Really if it is stripped weld a bolt and use an impact gun, it sure will come off then

I think I'll just replace the whole car. That's what you do with aveos right?

Welding a bolt and a rattle gun did the trick. Looks like my oil pan will live to see another day.

glad to hear you got it done

Replacement oil drain plugs with 17mm hex bolt head are easy to find in any auto parts store, also at quick oil change shops.

get a regular style with a 19mm head