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ok someone please help I had replace radiator n shop ran a test n no leaks showed up on my cooling system is der something else somewhere the oil n water can be mixing to bck into the reservoir bottle? how many days can u run the flush thru system n drive it if it just more serve thN normal?
I don't think the flush is designed to be left in verry long (I've only used the caustic type of flush)... there was a write up on "oilburners.net" in the 7.3L idi diesel forum that talked about running some kind of household detergent through your cooling system to clean out all of the oil residue... don't do anything until you can read up on it and know for sure...
Sometimes it just takes a bit longer to get all of the residue out.
I hope this was some help.
hmm ok i will do some research and see what type of detergent and go from there.
Anyone know if the thermostat housing have oil lines that run thru it? What other parts of the motor have both oil and water lines running thru it?
Does anyone knows if the oil restrictor is damaged will it cause oil to back up and then leak into the coolant?
first off. please learn some punctuation. second, if oil and coolant are mixing, then you have a headgasket failure.
First off this is not school nor is it a paper. Second you can keep your comments to yourself I can type how I want to this is just a question I am not being graded on. Head gasket all ready been changed car is not running hot, nor sluggish or anything for it to be a sign of head gasket this is only issue it is having thank you. I will be looking into it more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by camopaint0707
lol, someone got butthurt pretty fast.
How much oil are we talking about? If it's just trace amounts, could be residual.
Water and oil aren't supposed to mix. Like someone else said, it's probably a head gasket failure.
I would change your oil and see if any coolant got into your crankcase.
It is possible the head gasket can be faulty?
Its lot of oil in the bottle within a week like 2 quarts is gone out of it after water bottle is drained once or twice before it will show back to normal on the dip stick. I am telling the guy he will have to go back, take it down and check the head gasket again. He asking what does he have to look for? Could the gasket been put on backwards, or bolts not torqued correctly? What else would be good to look for exactly?
Also someone said something about an oil restrictor located on the head if its cracked/damaged which it was not changed at all would it back up the oil to where it will cause oil to go under gasket instead?
Guy is trying to convince me to spend 900 on another motor. If there is not anything major but head gasket gone out again or something small that would save me a lot of money. I want to make sure everything has been tried before I go spending all this money that can be avoided. Thanks to everyone taking the time out to comment and help me out. I really appreciate it very much.
Compression test done 90 90 120 115 (left to right)
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Originally Posted by slayerized6
That's a lot of oil... I would suspect the head gasket... I'm no expert on these engines but I wouldn't know how oil would "back up" from a oil passage in to the coolant... sounds like someone did a job wrong and now is trying to avoid redoing it right.
Case in point... my wife brought her car to the dealer to have the computer reflashed right after I changed out her water pump... because there was antifreeze on the engine they told her it "was POURING coolant out and she needed a new water pump... I show up and their tune changed in a hurry.
Good luck.
I don't know the ideal compression ratios for the Aveo, but your numbers are way low. You might possibly have a warped cylinder head. You mentioned that the head was recently removed and replaced? Its quite possible that the head wasn't torqued down correctly or the gasket was installed properly. What was the reason for removing the head originally?
And your mechanic is asking you what to look for? It's time to look for a new one.
Personally, I would pull the valve cover and check the torque on each of the cylinder bolts. I would bet that the bolts wernt torqued down fully or in the correct sequence. While it is possible, I would rule out an improperly installed head gasket; most likely your car would be overheating at this point if the gasket was installed backwards.
oh yes I know dealers will screw you over in a minute. I know I have been battling with GM dealership here and every time I took my car in for repairs I had to go over their head to the owner or the actual GM company. All ways try to find an excuse to rip people off for extra unnecessary money. Especially if it's under warranty oh goodness they lie to the warranty company just so you come out your pocket to pay NOT. They despise my car big time. I will get it checked again. Thanks
Originally family memeber ran it hot. Took heads to machine shop and guy at machine shop said head was warped charged $85 to supposely mill it and something else mechanic told me.
OK i have a feeling it been botherling me about the heads not being torqued down correctly cause I never seen a torque wrench the guy had. Its not over heating at all. Runs like there is nothing wrong with it at all until you raise hood and see the oil in reservoir. Have to keep checking the dip stick thou.
Anyone have the torque on each bolt handy? How many passes on each bolt? Below is the sequence order I received. 2009 chevy aveo LT 1.6 dual overhead cam.http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...d_sequence-jpg
IF that dont work the heads will go back to the machine shop that was suppose to have done whatever to it. I will keep ya posted on what I find. I should of went to college to fix and work on my own car shucks. Pay people and they half fix your vehicle and want you to pay money that you don't have to spend in the first place. SMH!! Got to find me a good honest mechanic.
UPDATE!!!
JUST FOUND OUT HE USED A EXT WITH THE SOCKET and rachet to torque the bolts. I have no idea why he did not ask me to purchase what he needed. He says he did not have the right drive so that is all he had. *really half a%^ work right got paid to do it right and took short cut instead* I knew that gut feeling been bothering me for some reason.
I will be going to search down all he needs to do it right and he will retorque the bolts and go from there.
Yes I know I NEED A NEW MECHANIC!!!
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Originally Posted by urdreamlady
What does this mean? the dip stick goes empty on the oil pan, but the coolant overflow is filling with oil? What are you draining? Where are you draining it? Why?Quote:
Originally Posted by urdreamlady
If you have oil in the coolant, you should have coolant in the oil. IS the dipstick oil clean? frothy? brown?
My advice to you is try a new mechanic, if this guy put the head gasket in, and it is screwed up and he is asking you what needs done. He should not have touched it in the first place. Why did you need the head gasket replaced the first time? That is probably still the problem.
Ok about a quart of oil per week is leaking into the coolant reservoir. There is no water in the oil at all. Dipstick oil comes back clear/clean. The reservoir bottle is where the lost oil is collecting up in and once its gets too full it starts to leak out from the reservoir cap so I have to take off the hoses to drain the reservoir bottle.
Needed a head gasket cause that is what the dealership service department stated. Family ran it hot.
As someone stated going to retorque the bolts flush system and go from there.
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Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
That was me that said that. Retorquing may work, it also may not work. A gasket is a one time only part. If he torqued it down too hard in one spot, it will not work correctly when re torqued correctly; you better hope that monkey with a wrench didnt apply enough torque. I advise that you torque the bolts to the correct spec yourself. You only need to remove the valve cover which should take 5 min at most and the head bolts should be right there.Quote:
Originally Posted by urdreamlady
If that fails, you should also go back to that shop and demand a refund or that they fix it correctly using a different mechanic. Taking off the timing belt and removing the head is not a cheap job and you shouldn't be paying twice for it.
Thanks so very much I have taken it back so he is now trying to find the right socket to di it with. He used and ext and another socket that was not the right socket he needed so he will be going back to do it. I will give an update soon as he finish it.
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Originally Posted by slayerized6
A technician that doesn't have the right socket? What kind of shop did you take your car to? In the trade we refer to shops like that as "Bubba's".Quote:
Originally Posted by urdreamlady
Well I thought the shop had the right tools. It gets lots of business maybe Bubba left tools in cars he was working on. Got get a new shop mechanic.
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Originally Posted by thankful_ragamuffin
FWIW: It might be helpful to others in your area if you shared the name of the shop/mechanic, in the hopes that no one makes the same mistake of assuming this shop/person might be able to fix their car. If a person is not even aware of what tools are needed for the job at hand, is a sure sign of incompetence. At some point, willful ignorance turns into a legal liability in the trade. FYI
UPDATE:: HAd the head gasket changed again. Now days later I have a chocolate milk color on top of the coolant in the reservoir bottle. When I give it gas loud squiking noise to me occurs worse first think in the mourning. Belts are new so it maybe a pully I am thinking. No one has ever heard of an oil cooler located under the manifold if it is the issue they are all wanting me to by a motor. I had only one guy tell me oil cooler everyone else looking puzzled like they have no idea what I am talking about. Any clear picture on what this looks like? ANy other ideas welcome? Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by urdreamlady
I know this is an old post but I see it come up time and time again. My girlfriends Aveo had oil in the coolant reservoir. Years ago when I worked at the local Porsche/Audi dealer, the Porsche 944 had problems when it first came out. The oil cooler would leak oil into the cooling system. Porsche's instructions were to replace the oil cooler and flush the cooling system by refilling the cooling system and pouring a small bottle of Shout laundry stain remover into the coolant reservoir. Then run the car until it got completely up to operating temperature, flush the cooling system and refilling the cooling system again. After thoroughly cleaning the cooling system (and replacing the hoses that had gotten soft due to the oil), the oil residue returned. A little research showed there IS an oil cooler under the exhaust manifold. It is the aluminum part that the oil filter housing is part of. The oil filter screws into the top of the oil cooler. Found one on Amazon for a very inexpensive price. The photos showed that it came with some of the rubber seals but there were a couple that weren't pictured. I found a seal kit for the oil cooler that showed ALL the rubber seals needed to replacing the cooler. Use vaseline to lubricate the seals so they slide in place properly when installing the new cooler. Problem solved! It has never returned. Since her model has variable valve timing, I was in no hurry to replace the head gasket. So, don't overlook the oil cooler that is mounted under the exhaust manifold. I know this is a common issue with the Aveos and I've seen quite a number of complaints for oil in the cooling system. Be aware the oil can eventually ruin any rubber hoses that have coolant in them.