Immobilizer - key probs - 2010 Chevy Aveo Hatchback Canada

[danTML7]

Instead of explaining, I'll just do a timeline:

1) one key fob worked to unlock doors, the other was dead. I was using the dead one for the longest time because it had a key ring and the other didn't (ie. laziness, lol)
2) I decided to replace the battery on the dead one, put the battery inside, clicked buttons and the red indicator lit, but locks didn't work. I figured "ahh whatever, I'm in a rush, I'll figure that out later" and I started the car and drove away from the battery place.
3) I arrived back home, turned car off. Went out the next day, drove away. Got to my location and I was on a slight downslope. I went to turn the key OFF without putting it in park, but I don't even think I touched the key much or at all tbh... can't recall... but then I put it in park, and key wouldn't turn. I thought the steering wheel was making it lock, so I moved it, but still stayed stuck.
4) I drive back home, still won't turn off.
5) I get my "working" key, and still won't turn off. now the previously working key won't control locks either.
6) I start pulling out fuses based on google recommendations, nothing works. I pull battery from the key that's in the ignition, disconnect battery for an hour, go back and now I notice there's a red SOLID dot on my clock. Googling this tells me something about the interrupter/anti-theft.

I am now sitting here with battery off for a few hours, two keys that both have battery power, but one stuck in the ignition and another that the vehicle seems to no longer recognize the signal for. I think it's triggered and it has PTSD and I need to give it empathy for it to be able to get back to regular existence.... orrrrrr maybe I read about using a scan tool?

Can anyone let me know where things might have went wrong here? I cannot believe that the day after I replace the key fob battery that *this* happens, so don't tell me it's a solenoid, fuse, transmission, shift problem, that would be too uncanny and I'm not willing to go there yet.

Thanks in advance to anyone who wants to join in the fun!

[Eg.h2o]

I’m assuming the car turns off, but the cylinder doesn’t turn to the next click to release the key?
try cycling the PRNDL Lever from low to park a few times with enthusiasm. Smack it into park. Possibly it’s not reading park from all electrical switches and won’t let your key out.

jiggle the key while playing with the gear selector handle.

[danTML7]

the car in fact does NOT turn off! It's stuck on the "on" position. I've tried jiggling the gears, slamming the shifter, wiggling the wheel, nothing. any other guesses?

[Eg.h2o]

Looks like you may have to remove the whole lock cylinder assembly and see what’s up.

[danTML7]

DING DING DING!

I have fixed my issue, sorta. Pretty ironic that I replaced the key battery less than 2 days before the lock cylinder assembly actually had a physical component break on the inside of it. Here's the saga though:

The cylinder can only be removed when in the ACC position, due to a locking pin that must be depressed. Since it couldn't physically move, I thought I was toast. A friend said he once had to grind one out with an angle grinder! I didn't want this to happen to me. I tried wiggling the wheel, shifting, hammering the key and surrounding components, spraying compressed air, spraying lubricant inside, etc.....

The only thing that worked was physically turning the key backwards at the same time as I (somewhat gently) tapped it inwards with a hammer with my other hand. It clicked back to ACC (not to OFF, still couldn't remove key itself) and I was able to remove the cylinder and take it all apart and find this piece, broken in 3. I have reassembled it in the manner which appears to be what it originally looked like.



Once I took it out and reassembled it, I put it all back together and it worked again. But the bonus for me was that when my old (good) key started the vehicle, the immobilizer sensed it was a legit key, and then the FOB buttons worked again. But the old one doesn't work anymore. The one that I originally replaced the battery in. Is there a way to program that key in some basic manner as opposed to paying a dealership or locksmith with the appropriate computer?

Are Aveos typically like this? Lol... it just feels INCREDIBLY far-fetched and unlucky that I'd replace the key fob battery and then have an unrelated key issue 36 hours later. Are Aveos cursed?

And I'm still curious what this component is. So curious, that I may buy another lock assembly and take it apart to find out, and maybe even replace before I put all my steering wheel components back together.

[Eg.h2o]

You have an odd situation.

the cheapest option to have multiple keys again is burying the head of the “good “ key head near the loop that senses the special key part and buy 2 or more keys that do not have a special part in the the key(that might interfere with the one you bury in the steering column)and have them cut.
Multiple keys….no programming.

[sjcleckley1]

Do you have a 3-button key I was able to program my keys 3 button with a Autell Maxiap AP200 got 1 for 35.00 a while back more now about 60.00 there are several switches/solenoids in the key tumbler housing that have to work properly to get the key place to remove it