Engine Overheating and Heater Blowing cold Air (2010 LT)

Greetings beautiful peeps. I'm having trouble with my 2010 Aveo LT (84,xxx miles). I will be grateful for any/all helpful input.

OK, so 2 weeks ago my upper radiator hose busted. I replaced the hose and refilled the antifreeze. I thought 'problem solved'. 2 days later, on the beltway, car started to overheat and heater started to blow cold air. I thought, okay damn I forgot to keep an eye on the antifreeze and top it off as needed. So, I topped it off and figured the problem was solved. The Next day, the heater input hose busted. I thought damn 2 hoses busting within 3 days is bad luck but with 84,xxx miles what are you gonna do? stuff happens. I replaced the hose, refilled the antifreeze and kept an eye on the antifreeze level. Next day, lower radiator hose busts! At this point I'm confused but say again, oh well old hoses. I replace the hose and top off the fluid. after a week from the original hose busting a 4th hose, the heater output hose busted. At this point, I ask for advice. A friend says to me, 'yea man, after replacing the hose you need to get the air out of your coolant line because there is air stuck in your system that's heating and expanding and busting your hoses". OHHH I say, got ya. So, upon replacing the 4th hose in a week I let my car run for 2 fan cycles with the radiator resevoir cap off. After the fan kicks on for the first time, the fluid level drops a little. I top it off and let the car run for another fan cycle. fluid levels are good but the car started to overheat from idiling in neutral. later that evening I take the car out, continually checking the antifreeze level. It overheats. The heater alternates between blowing warm and cold air. When i get home I notice the lower radiator hose is leaking a little where it connects to the radiator. So, I tightened the clamp ( i bought clamps that tighten with sockets and flat head screw driver because the clamps that come stock were driving me crazy). I tightened all the clamps i replaced. I ran the car to the first fan cycle. There appears to be NO leaks. I let the car idle in neutral for about 20 minutes. the fan doesn't shut off but the temp is right below half way. The heater is blowing cold air. I decide to drive the car. As soon as I put it into Drive the temp starts to rise. By 4 minutes driving, all under 25mph, the temp gauge is at H and the heater is still blowing cold air. I pull back to my home. I check the antifreeze. It is still full. I check for leaks. I see none. Now I am stuck IDK what the heck to do next. I look for the water pump and it doesn't seem to be leaking. No hoses are leaking.

I'm ready to drive this car off a cliff (if i can make it to one before it overheats)! any and all insight is much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

-G Rileaux

While the thermostat is probably due to be changed, it really seems like water pump. without circulating the coolant your car probably does okay at idle but get super hot under load. The thermostat for these cars is 221 degrees! If it doesn't flow it will boil. I would recommend the thermostat, manifold and thermostat housing together since the stock manifold is plastic. I did a post on it here, if that helps. Until you find the problem, don't drive the car as you are most likely to run the head without coolant and aluminum heads really don't fare well when that happens.

GRileaux - please let us know what you ultimately find out.

I can definitely say something isn't right with your car; with so many burst hoses (and my 2010 is still running on the original radiator hoses) and no heat, I'd say you probably have a blown head gasket. I would rent or buy a combustion leak detector to verify. and if the head gasket IS gone, go ahead and replace the timing belt early since you'll have the head off anyway.

it's like this if you replace the part twice, then it's not the parts fault. SOMETHING else is wrong.

1) Replace the thermostat
2) Make sure the pump is working
3) Check the radiator is not blocked.

Once you figure out the flow problem then hopefully you did not cook your engine head

Any updates ?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by GRileaux

Greetings beautiful peeps. I'm having trouble with my 2010 Aveo LT (84,xxx miles). I will be grateful for any/all helpful input.

OK, so 2 weeks ago my upper radiator hose busted. I replaced the hose and refilled the antifreeze. I thought 'problem solved'. 2 days later, on the beltway, car started to overheat and heater started to blow cold air. I thought, okay damn I forgot to keep an eye on the antifreeze and top it off as needed. So, I topped it off and figured the problem was solved. The Next day, the heater input hose busted. I thought damn 2 hoses busting within 3 days is bad luck but with 84,xxx miles what are you gonna do? stuff happens. I replaced the hose, refilled the antifreeze and kept an eye on the antifreeze level. Next day, lower radiator hose busts! At this point I'm confused but say again, oh well old hoses. I replace the hose and top off the fluid. after a week from the original hose busting a 4th hose, the heater output hose busted. At this point, I ask for advice. A friend says to me, 'yea man, after replacing the hose you need to get the air out of your coolant line because there is air stuck in your system that's heating and expanding and busting your hoses". OHHH I say, got ya. So, upon replacing the 4th hose in a week I let my car run for 2 fan cycles with the radiator resevoir cap off. After the fan kicks on for the first time, the fluid level drops a little. I top it off and let the car run for another fan cycle. fluid levels are good but the car started to overheat from idiling in neutral. later that evening I take the car out, continually checking the antifreeze level. It overheats. The heater alternates between blowing warm and cold air. When i get home I notice the lower radiator hose is leaking a little where it connects to the radiator. So, I tightened the clamp ( i bought clamps that tighten with sockets and flat head screw driver because the clamps that come stock were driving me crazy). I tightened all the clamps i replaced. I ran the car to the first fan cycle. There appears to be NO leaks. I let the car idle in neutral for about 20 minutes. the fan doesn't shut off but the temp is right below half way. The heater is blowing cold air. I decide to drive the car. As soon as I put it into Drive the temp starts to rise. By 4 minutes driving, all under 25mph, the temp gauge is at H and the heater is still blowing cold air. I pull back to my home. I check the antifreeze. It is still full. I check for leaks. I see none. Now I am stuck IDK what the heck to do next. I look for the water pump and it doesn't seem to be leaking. No hoses are leaking.

I'm ready to drive this car off a cliff (if i can make it to one before it overheats)! any and all insight is much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

-G Rileaux

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Hey there guy. Any updates ?


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