Camshaft/Crankshaft seal removal and installation

So I have found a 1 1/4" PVC pipe cap that fits perfectly over the camshaft to slide the new seals on. I also found a 3/4" PVC coupler that I am hoping will fir over the crankshaft to slide that seal on. If I can get that far I will provide pictures of the process.

I am stuck at removing the damn things though. I was intending to use a self tapping screw to stick through the seals carefully. I then tried a small drill bit. It looks like the seals have metal bands in them. Anyone here have an idea to get these seals out on the Aveo?

You didn't describe what happened with the drill bit, but I'm guessing it didn't bite. If so, buy a couple sizes of top quality cobalt bits. They're somewhat pricey, but will do what you need to get done.

Hmm weird, my last post must not have posted.

Anyways, yes the bit did not bite. I was able to find the Lisle 58430 Shaft Seal Puller tool at the Orielly's distribution center/store up in Naperville so I am running to grab it sometime tonight. I will report how that works. My plan is to snap some pictures for you all of the process.

Alright I just completed the camshaft seals. I feel empowered to do the front crankshaft seal, but it is super cold and my garage is not heated. I'm going to get as far as I can tonight on it and finish tomorrow.


Here's my write up for the cam seals. Most importantly work slowly and be patient.


Step 0) Grab supplies. You'll probably have to mess around until you find the perfect combination of random stuff that works for you. What worked for me was:


-One 1 1/4" PVC pipe coupler. I had to buy several and until I found a perfect length given that the A/C line is right in the way. Remember you can look in the water pipe and electric conduit pipe sections at the hardware store for the perfect coupler. Make sure it's PVC, not metal, you don't want to scratch your cam.


-One socket set screw of size M10 X 1.50 (I used 80MM for the length).


-Two M10 X 1.5 Flare nuts


-Two various sized washers. One that was big enough to fit the socket set screw through, but small enough to catch the flare nut, and one that was big enough to catch the previous washer and stop against the edge of the PVC coupler. Basically have washers that make the nut push on the PVC pipe.


-One Lisle 58430 Shaft Seal Puller. I got the tool at O'Reillys for $20. You MAY be able to get by with one of those paint can opener tools. But make sure it has a small head and be extremely careful with it.

-Silicone grease

-Black Silicone RTV Sealer (optional)

-Paper towels, q-tips, rubbing alcohol (or something similar), compressed air, and gloves.

-Small painters foam brush


Step 1) Line up timing marks. Loosen the crank and cam sprocket bolts. Recheck timing marks. Remove timing belt. Remove crank and cam sprockets.


Step 2) Take your PVC coupler and stick it onto the camshaft against the seal. Take a permanent marker and mark around the pipe against the cam housing. This makes sure you get the proper seal depth. I actually bolted the coupler into place lightly and just rotated it with the marker touching it to make the mark. Don’t use a silver marker like I did, it rubbed off easily and I ended up using black.

Attachment 10738


Step 3) Pull out the old seals. I used the Lisle tool. The seals are too far recessed into the cam housing for you to use the full tool. What I did was use the little black "pick" that came with the tool itself. You can unbolt the one on the tool or use the spare they provide. I'm lazy and used the spare. Stick it under the seal on the camshaft side with the hook pointing outwards from the camshaft. It is a pain to get in there, but it does fit. Once it's underneath the seal push the pick flat against the shaft and give it a little tug to ensure it’s in there good. Then I stuck a screwdriver through the hole on the other end of the pick. I then pried the screwdriver against the engine to pop the seal out. Be careful of what you put the tip of the screwdriver against. Also make sure you pull out as straight as possible with the pry motion. A small amount of oil will come out, but very little. I tossed some paper towels underneath just in case.

Attachment 10739


Step 4) Clean up and inspect the camshaft and housing. I used alcohol, paper towels, and Q-tips to clean out all the old oil and gunk. I then blasted it out with some compressed air.

Attachment 10740


Step 5) Take some SILICONE grease, you can find it in the piping section of the hardware store, rub it on the camshaft and on the inside of the seal. Make sure the little spring is in place (if your seal has one). I used a little paint sponge to get the grease onto the camshaft. Just smear it on one side of the brush, this way it doesn’t get on the outside housing.

Attachment 10741
Attachment 10752

Step 6) Fit the seal onto the camshaft. I used a slight twisting motion to ensure the seal wouldn’t fold over. Push it into the housing slightly. Check and make sure it is straight and not folded over.

Attachment 10742


Step 7 (Optional)) I smeared a tiny amount of black silicone RTV around the outside edge of the seal where it fits into the housing. Just to act as a lubricant as you push the seal in and to hold it in place once it dries. You don’t want it dripping everywhere and you don’t want to put too much to make it impossible to pull the seal later if necessary.

Attachment 10743


Step 8 ) Take your socket set screw. Make sure the hex key hole is facing away from the camshaft. Take one of the flange nuts and put it on the screw so that the flange is facing towards the camshaft. Screw the set screw into the camshaft until you have achieved proper length. DO NOT tighten it all the way in, it will be a pain to get out, a few threads is all that’s needed. You may have to play with the PVC coupling, nuts, and washers to get around the stuff in the way. I lowered the engine slightly for the front/exhaust camshaft (if you have A/C). LIGHTLY tighten the flange nut against the camshaft. Again not too tight, otherwise you can’t get it out. This is to ensure a straight, wobble free, guide for the seal.

Attachment 10744

Attachment 10745

Step 9) Slide your coupler over the screw and against the seal. Center it out as best as you can. Slide the washers into place. Put the second flare nut on with the flare facing inwards towards the cam. Lightly tighten it all together.

Attachment 10753Attachment 10754


Step 10) Take a allen/hex wrench and put it in the end of the set screw. The set screw didn’t move for me, but I wasn’t taking the chance of it loosening or tightening as I was working the seal in. Take a wrench and put it on the nut. Hold the allen wrench in place and slowly tighten the nut with the wrench. This will force the seal inwards into the housing.

Attachment 10755


Step 11) Take everything off occasionally as you are tightening the seal into place to check for straightness and make sure the seal isn’t getting messed up. I used a woman’s powder mirror taped to a paint stirrer to see around the seal. You want to make sure that the inner part of the seal isn’t folded over. Also make sure your flange nut against the camshaft is still snug. If you are going in crooked, you can move the coupler towards the way that’s sticking out more. You can also take a socket extension and a hammer and LIGHTLY tap the seal to get it to flush up. Once you get the PVC coupler over the camshaft itself, it will be easier to keep the seal straight, but you want it as straight as possible before you get to that point. This is because the coupler will fit snugly around the camshaft.

Attachment 10756


Step 12) Tighten the seal until your line is against the cam housing, in other words in the same place as it was before you took your old seal off. For me it made some popping noises as it went in. Hopefully that’s not bad, but both seals did it.


Step 13) Remove your “tool” and inspect the seal. Clean off any excess RTV if you used it. Make sure it’s close to it’s original depth. Also make sure it is straight. If it’s a little off you can take the coupler and lightly tap it with a hammer on the side that’s out more to straighten it up.


step 14) Let the RTV dry while you reassemble the car. Done!!

Well I hit two snags when I was getting ready to do the crankshaft seal.

First the 3/4" pipe I have is too small to fit over the crank snout, so I think I'll have to go up to a 1" and try it. I'll have to wait until tomorrow. However the M12 X 1.75 with 80mm length Set Screw I have fits perfectly. It was a good guess because I forgot to grab the pulley bolt when I left for the store.

Second and more importantly... I noticed that the end of the crank has some surface rust on it. Some pictures are below. Should I continue given the rust? I'm afraid it will snag my seal. I'm not sure if the crank seal is even leaking, so this is just timing belt preventative maintenance. One of the cam seals appeared to be leaking, so swapping those was a must. But something is leaking down there, look at it.

Anyways, if I do not decide to continue. The steps to do the crank would be the same as above. Just substitute your coupler and bolt sizes for the sizes I have in this post. I'll confirm the proper coupler size either way, even if I chicken out.

Attachment 10750Attachment 10751

Nice write up. I like the pictures and steps. I would lightly sand before removing the seal and lube is your friend when putting it back on.

Unfortunately the lady got impatient without her car, so I am just putting it back together since the crank seal isn't leaking. Plus with that rust, I'm afraid of not being able to get a good new seal into place. However, like I said above the process should be the exact same. I'm betting a 1" PVC coupler will fit over the crank snout for you to drive the new seal in. So if you need to do the crank just substitute the right size tools.

Just a heads up. I went way out of my way to get the Lisle shaft seal puller from OReilly's since my store didn't keep it in stock when I did this job. However, I happened to be in Advance Auto yesterday and noticed there is basically an exact clone of the mentioned Lisle tool in stock in their stores. The AA near me is just a typical store. The clone tool is not listed on their website (the Lisle tool itself says ship to home only) and I can't remember what the brand is right now, but it's definitely there. So if you're looking for the Lisle tool and cannot find it, check out AA in their tool section for an exact clone by another brand. The price was the same, $20. This may save someone a wait or a drive.

The tool looks exactly like this one on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Crank-Shaft-C.../dp/B0032S6WBS

As far as the crank & seal . If you had replaced the seal , I agree , I would spray the crank with PB Blaster , then use either very fine grit sandpaper / emery cloth ( or very fine steel wool ) on the rust . Spray then clean as many times as you feel is needed .

However , if it were me , I would go by the saying , " If it ain't broke , do not fix it . "

God bless
Wyr