Replaced the plugs, wires, valve cover gasket this evening. Not that I was expecting them to, but the plugs and wires didn't make a difference.
Have a reader coming tomorrow, and plan on checking compression as well.
Argh....
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Replaced the plugs, wires, valve cover gasket this evening. Not that I was expecting them to, but the plugs and wires didn't make a difference.
Have a reader coming tomorrow, and plan on checking compression as well.
Argh....
Here's the latest. I pulled the plugs and checked for compression.
Cylinder #1 was the only one that gave me any reading. It only showed about 65psi on the gauge (although the gauge is a crappy loaner tool from autozone and the accuracy is suspect). When the gauge was in the first socket, the engine still sounded like it was turning over. ruh-ruh-ruh-ruh-ruh, if you will. When inserted in the remaining sockets, it would just go ruuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, just an even, stable noise. Didn't sound like anything was turning.
The ruuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhh is also what I got with no plugs and no gauge.
Aaaannnddddd, the verdict is:
Attachment 5548
Now, before the engine didn't start, I had no indication that there was anything wrong with the way the engine was running.
A few questions:
- Assuming the teeth on the belt stripped when trying to crank the engine and not before, what are the chances that there is internal damage?
- If I go ahead and replace the belt, without checking the internals, is there a chance I might do more damage?
- I obviously am unable to mark the belt (as suggested in the timing belt guide in another thread). How do I assure that the new belt is put on with the correct teeth in the correct spaces (or I guess, the correct number of teeth between gears, etc.)?
And mods/admins, could the thread title be changed to "Timing Belt Issues" or something similar to make this thread easier to find for future readers?
Thanks,
Steve
that is definitely a problem there..
the chance of internal damage is still high, it might be lessened due to only 2-4 valves sticking down if the top end wasnt moving. You can replace the belt in hopes of setting time and then checking compression again.
I would set the timing marks to tdc. not much more you can do, the but the belt on, turn it over by hand and see if the marks sill line up.
I changed the belt today, checked and rechecked and rechecked the timing, and triple checked to make sure everything got back to where it came from.
Well, I started the engine up and it sounded like crap, and was shaking like crazy.
I checked the compression (the gauge may or may not be entirely accurate), and got a reading of 100 psi on cylinders 1 & 3. # 4 topped out at about 90, and #2 had a big fat ZERO.
Any suggestions on where to move from here?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEx-MAIzhvM
you need to rebuild your head and replace valves.
Yeah...I knew that was the answer. I just hope someone would tell me different :)Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
I've done some searching, but is there a tutorial for removing the head? AllDataDIY has some info, but the illustrations leave something to be desired...of course, if there's not, I guess this is as good a time as any to make one.
Wouldn't it be easier to just pick up a replacement engine?
Easier perhaps. Cheaper it would not be.Quote:
Originally Posted by freddingo
its not easier, and definitely not cheaper. You can leave 90% of the engine compartment intact to pull the head, you need to take out most everything to replace the engine.