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Hi I'm new to this site, just purchased an 06 Aveo. With all the reading I've been doing on them, it has come to my understanding that the timing belts go early. I can get a kit for $235 canadian (timing belt, and components, also waterpump and cam seals. Is that a decent price. Also do I have to pull the cam out to change the cam seals, if not can someone maybe tell me how to go about changing them since I'm going to be changing timing belt etc anyways. Thanks.
Rock auto can do better click the link here: http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f117/...nt-code-16176/ to get a better deal.
Thanks Aveo5, will definitely shop there. :cool:
you have to take off the cam gears to access the seals.
I'd recommend not replacing either the cam or crank seals, unless they're leaking. Haven't seen any significant history of these seals failing, so this doesn't seem to be a routine maintenance item. Plus, if you were to nick one of the metal surfaces during removal or installation, it would then turn into the DIY job from hell.
mine failed at about 150k but it seems to be a rare occurrence
Well, this is certainly something to keep active on the radar. If more reports start coming in about these seals failing around that mileage or higher, then this may very well become something to become more proactive on. I'm always willing to adjust my thinking about these things based on new information.Quote:
Originally Posted by jayman
Just curious how do you know your cam seals are failing? My head gasket cover failed around 90K miles.
I removed my cam sprockets when I did my timing belt and didn't bother replacing the seals....30,000 km's have passed and still no leaks. I would say if you would like to do proactive maintenance is to replace them on the 2nd timing belt change instead of a the 1st one.....unless they are leaking now.
Here is a youtube clip on a tool that removes camshaft seals..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_VQHvqXaYU ....it will give you an idea of what is involved in replacing them. In another video I saw the person used a pipe the size of the seal with a hammer to knock the new seal back in place.
Thanks to everyones response to this question. I won't know if they seals are leaking until I do my timing belt change, which I'm hoping to do very shorty. I was wondering how to do it because I thought it might be part of preventative maintenance as one of the timing belt kits at Rockauto come with cam seals in the kit.
yeah, its a good idea to do while your in there, i had to replace mine about a month after i did my timing belt :/
Thanks for your input jayman, i may just do it then...would you mind explaining how you changed your cam seals after getting your cam gears off. My engine has 151000km on it and I don't think it has been done yet, so I'm leaning more to getting the kit with the cam seals.
Mine were worn to the point of them spinning as the engine ran so it was pretty easy to pry them out. i think i used a small screwdriver to get mine, anything pointed should work. just take your time and try not to scratch where the seals sit. good luck!
look at the snap-on tool kit and try and fashion you something of that nature if you can. just go get you a nail and flatten the end and bend it. find you some flat steel and drill a hole in the center and cut the a slot in both ends. Tap that center hole and put a bolt through it. Shove the nails into the seals like they showed on the video and you have a seal puller for little of nothing.
05Aveo, you read my mind, that was exactly what I was thinking after watching the video ;)
Thanks for all the positive responses, sure nice to be on a site where everyone is nice and respectful.
Yeah no problem when you have moral and ethics which this site has and I was brought up that way, then you got a good flow of information and good repore. Let us know what you did and how to fashion it so we can either copy or know what the problems are. Appreciate the quick feedback.
Just waiting on my parts, will let you know how I made out and what I did.
So how did you do on changing your belt out?Quote:
Originally Posted by bandf
Well 05Aveo, here is how it went....it's a long story but the end turned out good...
I got the timing belt covers off and discovered that one of my cam seals was leaking so now i'm happy I got the new seals in my timing belt kit from Rockauto. Then i thought I had better take my plastic engine cover off. What did I discover....you got it, a leaking valve cover gasket. That sent me down to my local auto parts store to get a valve cover gasket kit which they had ( oh this started this past Saturday about noon. I get back home, turn the engine by hand ( forgot to mention, very first thing i did before starting was disconnect negative battery post clamp) and line up all the timing marks including the crank pulley. Drained the rad and engine of coolant. Loosened off the waterpump and took the timing belt off ( had the engine blocked up and the engine mount and intake breather all disconnected and removed from the car also. Then I started taking everything off the front of the engine (water pump, auto tensioner, idler pulley, cam sprockets and used an allen wrench in the flywheel to lock the engin so I could take the crank pulley off (worked great by the way)). That's when I discovered that everything looked 151000 km old....you see I just bought the car used and i asked the person if they had ever changed the timing belt on it and his answer was no. Even if he would have said yes I was going to take a look anyways. Anywho, I had made a cam seal puller at work to pull the cam seals which I never did use because I had to change my valve cover gasket, so I just took the cam caps off and changed them that way. I put the new parts in, the cam caps and the cam sprockets back on and got the timing marks lined up and got the timing belt put back on...now the headache...tried adjusting the water pump with channel lock pliers (water pump pliers)....didn't work after hour and a half of struggling (I'm stubborn). That was Saturday. Now Sunday, I get up go to my work shop and fabricated a water pump tool, well hot damn works like a charm with more modifications to it at home. Finally got the belt tension to the proper tension. Put the new valve cover gasket on, the valve cover...ohh changed my plugs and was able to find NGK plug wires (expensive hoodlums they are). Got everything put back together....was thinking to myself, now it's all downhill from here (sweet)....got all the hoses connected and fresh dex cool premixed coolant put in, crank pulley put back in while holding the flywheel with the allen wrench again. Put the drive belt (water pump belt) back on. Stood back and looked at the beast and thought, wow, what a long two days...lol..but I got-er done. I start the car (but s**t what did I forget to do). Allen wrench!!!!!!! I forgot to remove the allen wrench....I'm sure you know the words that came out of my mouth. I shut the engine off still cursing, slowly calming myself down. Get under the car and look into the hole where I had the allen wrench and see that the flywheel is scratched up. Ouch I say....I stay under there and look around, then figured, well looks like I have to drop the exhaust from the engine (easy to do)...drained the oil pan and took out all the oil pan bolts....so I thought...something was holding the pan in place, well there is two bolts holding it on at the flywheel end, of course there were plugs hiding them. Well, soon as I dropped the oil pan down the allen wrench falls out. For those who don't know, the oil pan is also a flywheel cover...doing two jobs in one. Raced back to my local auto parts store (closing in 10 min). Got black silicone rtv silicone to seal oil pan when put back into place, added the oil back into the engine. Put the exhaust back on, double checked, triple checked to make sure I didn't forget anything this time. I did check the flywheel when I had the oil pan off, no missing teeth, but some scratches on the flywheel. Put the flywheel housing rubber plug back in. Stood back again and thought well ths is do or die....so I started the engine and wow it purred like a kitten...actually ran quieter and smoother, no vibration like before I started the job.
I know it's a long story, but that's how it went.
Here are some pics of my fabricated tools.
Attachment 8180Attachment 8181Attachment 8183
interested story to say the least. Question that I am having is lining the marks up on the camshaft. How did you manage to get them to line up because I tried and I was a tooth or half a tooth off so took it back off. Did you line the marks up at first or did you offset them and tighten it up. What is the tension on the belt as well. I think I am doing something wrong because the book and stuff really doesnt do a fair shake of how it is done. I had also bought a crowfoot for my waterpump. I think it is 1 5/8 but closer to 1 9/16 because i had to put tape to tighten it up on the neck. Yours looks pretty good. You can use that seal puller to lock the pulleys up when you change it again.
Took me over an hour, but in the end I finally ended up:
Lining up all the timing marks as best I could and put timing belt on.
Adjusted tension so pointers on tensioner line up by rotating water pump clockwise.
Adjusted crankshaft timing mark back to where it's supposed to be because it moved when I applied tension to timing belt.
Checked timing marks on camshaft pulleys, one camshaft pulley was correct, the other was out a tooth.
I put a mark on the correct pulley and a mark on the timing belt to line up with it.
On the other cam pulley I put a mark at the valley of the pulley and determined which tooth need to go into the valley and marked tooth on timing belt that goes into the marked valley so that the timing marks line up under tension.
I put a mark on the timing belt at the crankshaft timing belt pulley timing mark.
Re-adjusted timing belt so all timing marks lined up when tensioner pointers are lined up.
Rotated crankshaft two complete revolutions to make sure timing marks are still lined up.
After rotating crankshaft the two revolutions my tensioner pointers showed that my timing belt was too tight. Slightly loosened water pump and rotated it counter clockwise until pointers on tensioner were even. ( that gives proper timing belt tension). Tightened water pump.
Next time I do my timing belt, I'm going to mark the timing belt and pulleys, then transfer the marks from the old timing belt to the new one. Will make life so much easier that way.
Good luck and let me know how you made out.....If I can help even just one person, I'm a happy camper.
Cheers!!!!!
btw - thanks for the positive comments on my home made tools