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    Thread: 2005 Aveo - Crank, no start

    1. #41
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      I removed the exhaust manifold.

      Still looking for where the alternator bolts to the block. So the alternator will also come off with the head?



    2. #42
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      If I remember correctly, the alternator stays with the block.

    3. #43
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      Quote Originally Posted by Eg.h2o View Post
      If I remember correctly, the alternator stays with the block.
      Just watched a video of some guy taking it off. I think ill try removing it before I try taking the head off again.

    4. #44
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      Got around the removing the head. Attached will be some pictures of what the pistons look like. In my opinion, the pistons look like they are done. Let me know what your thoughts are.
      Attached Images Attached Images     

    5. #45
      2004 1.6 Auto Rust Free
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      Pistons look fine. Those “valve marks” are NOT from the valves hitting the pistons. They are factory made.

    6. #46
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      Quote Originally Posted by Eg.h2o View Post
      Pistons look fine. Those “valve marks” are NOT from the valves hitting the pistons. They are factory made.
      Thanks. Im interested in seeing what the valves look like. You think its ok to put back together from the pictures ive posted?

    7. #47
      2004 1.6 Auto Rust Free
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      Yup. Block and pistons look OK.
      Are you putting on a remanufactured head? Or are you rebuilding yours?

    8. #48
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      Quote Originally Posted by Eg.h2o View Post
      Yup. Block and pistons look OK.
      Are you putting on a remanufactured head? Or are you rebuilding yours?
      Going to rebuild mine more than likely. New valves, valve stem seals. Not sure if new lifters, guides and keeps are necessary.

      Any recommendations or tips?

    9. #49
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      I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but opted for a reman head. Just peace of mind knowing that it was all checked out. If you go that route make sure to swap the oil galley plugs to the new head, and install the cam seals. You don’t want oil pouring everywhere.
      Make sure all of the timing belt covers are back on before firing it up. The cam belt can and will slide off very quickly if the covers are off.... that would ruin your day (and the head).

      DON’T SKIMP ON THE GASKETS. GET A GOOD NAME BRAND.
      get a degree indicator for torquing the (new) headbolts. Don’t reuse the old ones.

      oh yeah, while you’re there, replace every cooling/heater hose. Now is the time, some are nearly impossible to get to when the head is on.
      Last edited by Eg.h2o; 09-09-2020 at 03:48 AM.

    10. #50
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      Quote Originally Posted by Eg.h2o View Post
      I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but opted for a reman head. Just peace of mind knowing that it was all checked out. If you go that route make sure to swap the oil galley plugs to the new head, and install the cam seals. You don’t want oil pouring everywhere.
      Make sure all of the timing belt covers are back on before firing it up. The cam belt can and will slide off very quickly if the covers are off.... that would ruin your day (and the head).


      DON’T SKIMP ON THE GASKETS. GET A GOOD NAME BRAND.
      get a degree indicator for torquing the (new) headbolts. Don’t reuse the old ones.

      oh yeah, while you’re there, replace every cooling/heater hose. Now is the time, some are nearly impossible to get to when the head is on.
      What did the reman head cost you?





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