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    Thread: Replacing BTSI solenoid - fixes the unable to remove key from ignition problem

    1. #1
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      Replacing BTSI solenoid - fixes the unable to remove key from ignition problem

      North American Aveos have an additional safety feature called the Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock. This is what keeps you from shifting out of park unless your foot is on the brake and also what prevents you from removing the key from the ignition unless the transmission is in park (to prevent you from locking the steering wheel while you're moving).

      There is a GM service bulletin on the problem (#070730007) that applies to 2004 - 2006 Aveos.

      The actual part that fails is the BTSI Solenoid - p/n 96858794 - the price is under $50. The name is a bit of a misnomer because there are actually two separate components attached to a single connector. One component is the solenoid. It retracts when the brake pedal is pressed allowing you to move the shift lever out of "Park". The other component is a switch that senses when the lever is in Park - and releases the ignition lock allowing you to get the key out. The switch is held in place by some plastic tabs. These tabs break and allow the switch to be pushed out of its place - so it becomes intermittent at sensing the lever in park.

      Replacing it isn't hard - but good luck trying to find any reference to the solenoid in the manual. It is shown in the electrical diagrams (page 2-52) and there is a picture of the connector - but no instructions for removing and replacing. The instructions for removing the console are also lacking in detail. Here is the missing info.

      You may get some extra clearance by removing the shift knob. This may not be needed, but I did it on mine. To remove the shift knob, rotate the silver ring on the bottom of the knob (it seems to me it is reverse thread) about a half turn. Then, when it loosens, pull up on the knob.

      There are three screws holding the console in place - two on each side near the front and one under the coin dish at the rear (remove a plastic tab to get to it).

      Pull up on the park brake. Remove the leatherette cover - it unclips and slides over the shift lever (if you've removed the knob). This exposes the adjustment nut. You will probably have to back off the brake to get the console over the lever. Count the threads showing before you back it off - so you can restore it to the safe setting when you put things back together. Don't forget - or you won't have a park brake!! Back the nut off until it allows the brake handle to go almost vertical. Now lift the console off the shift assembly and set it aside. You will have to reach under and unclip the wire that connects to the cigar lighter power jack. There is a tab you squeeze to unlock it.

      There are four bolts that hold the shift assembly to the floor. Remove them. Carefully lift the shift assembly off the floor and lay it on its left side. This will expose the screws that hold the solenoid in place. Remove them and lift the old solenoid off the shift assembly. Put the new solenoid in place and screw it in place.

      Turn the shift lever onto the other side. You will need to partly remove the black shift bezel (the part that surrounds the lever) in order to get the old switch out of its hole. The bezel is held in place with metal clips. Very carefully pull the bezel back about 1/2". That should give enough clearance to pull the switch out. If the tabs are broken it will come out easily. If not - you may have to slide a blade alongside to retract the switch. Put the new one in its place.

      I haven't given details, but make sure the cables and wires are routed as they were. Mine had a tie wrap that held the wires in place.

      Then basically put it all back together as you took it apart.

      Make sure that you reset the brake adjuster to its original position.

      Hopefully this is helpful to someone else.



    2. #2
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      temp fix

      here is a quick fix until you can get the car to the mechanic: To shift out of park use the shift park release but to get the key out you can pull the fuse for the radio/clock. I ended up driving with out a radio for 3 weeks and am taking it to the mechanics monday. There should be a recall as this could easily become a safety issue.

    3. #3
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      The suggestions made by fsmile for getting the car out of park and/or getting the key out of the ignition should work.

      I am interested to know how much they charge to replace the solenoid - I have heard some horror stories in this regard. It shouldn't be over 1 hour (or maximum 2 hours) of labour, IMHO.

      The funny thing is that this feature was put in for safety reasons - mostly to overcome the issue Audi encountered with the shifter getting bumped into gear with the driver's foot on the gas instead of the brake. Of course, that has opened up a whole new set of possibilities. Only North America has that "feature". Tells you something about us, doesn't it?!

    4. #4
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      Actually my mechanic gave me the option of replacing it or disabling/removing/bypassing it, I cant remember his exact words but he recommended doing that instead of replacing it. I printed out the directions supplied on this thread to take to him on monday just in case he needs it but I think he is just going to disconnect it some how. I will report back with an update next week.

    5. #5
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      i have only heard of this issue one other time, and it was the switch on the brake pedal..

      recalls need to have a safety issue and a numbers issue, as in enough cars need to have the problem and it has the endanger you or others in some way. I dont see that happening here. But it seems there is a tsb for it. Shame if you guys are out of warranty.


    6. #6
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      While one solution might be to bypass it (as suggested by the mechanic) I recommend against it. First of all, to do it properly he will have to short the leads that went to the switch and remove the solenoid unit. That is just as much work as simply replacing the switch and solenoid so (other than the cost of the BTSI) you won't save much.

      Secondly, one is never sure on a modern car what sensors the computer monitors. If, for example, the computer notices that the switch always shows that the gear shift is in park (which allows you to remove the key) the computer might deduce there is a switch failure if it also sees that the car is going down the road at 60 MPH. And one never knows what action it might take!

      Finally, if there ever is an accident, and it was discovered that a safety feature (interlock to prevent key removal unless in Park) had been disabled, then who knows what that might do to the liability.

      If I were you, I would get the updated parts and have the mechanic change them properly.

    7. #7
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      How does this interface with the steering wheel lock? Have the Aveo back together and running great, but the steering wheel would not lock. I stuck the key into the shift lock release, both turn signal indicators on the cluster flashed once, I heard the power locks try to open, and the steering wheel would lock again. Cool. I put the key into the ignition, turn it to the on position, turn it to the off position, and now the steering wheel will not lock again. NOT cool.

      Ideas?

    8. #8
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      BTSI Solenoid - relationship with steering lock

      I'm not sure if or how the BTSI solenoid would affect the actual steering lock itself. As far as I know, it only controls whether or not the key is released. And that, in turn, should control whether the steering wheel will lock. I am surprised that, if you can remove the key, the steering lock doesn't function.

      The manual is somewhat vague on the details of how the system works. It is conceivable that, if it thinks the shifter is not in park, that it will refuse to lock the steering wheel (because you might be moving). But then, I would think that it would refuse to release the key itself. It is possible that, for safety's sake, there are two separate mechanisms in the system - one to release the key and the other to lock the wheel. Since I couldn't get my key out, I would have had no opportunity to observer this.

      I am afraid I don't have the answer to your specific question. The BTSI solenoid is cheap enough you might try replacing it (or at least, inspecting it) to see if that cures the problem.

    9. #9
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      Trinsgoldby
      Thanks for this advice, I had to replace my Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock solonoid/switch today due to plastic tabs were broken

      New part looks a little different, solonoid is now encased in a metal shroud.

      Since my tabs were broken I could not tell if the switch is made any better.

      your instructions were right on




      Quote Originally Posted by tringoldsby View Post
      North American Aveos have an additional safety feature called the Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock. This is what keeps you from shifting out of park unless your foot is on the brake and also what prevents you from removing the key from the ignition unless the transmission is in park (to prevent you from locking the steering wheel while you're moving).

      There is a GM service bulletin on the problem (#070730007) that applies to 2004 - 2006 Aveos.

      The actual part that fails is the BTSI Solenoid - p/n 96858794 - the price is under $50. The name is a bit of a misnomer because there are actually two separate components attached to a single connector. One component is the solenoid. It retracts when the brake pedal is pressed allowing you to move the shift lever out of "Park". The other component is a switch that senses when the lever is in Park - and releases the ignition lock allowing you to get the key out. The switch is held in place by some plastic tabs. These tabs break and allow the switch to be pushed out of its place - so it becomes intermittent at sensing the lever in park.

      Replacing it isn't hard - but good luck trying to find any reference to the solenoid in the manual. It is shown in the electrical diagrams (page 2-52) and there is a picture of the connector - but no instructions for removing and replacing. The instructions for removing the console are also lacking in detail. Here is the missing info.

      You may get some extra clearance by removing the shift knob. This may not be needed, but I did it on mine. To remove the shift knob, rotate the silver ring on the bottom of the knob (it seems to me it is reverse thread) about a half turn. Then, when it loosens, pull up on the knob.

      There are three screws holding the console in place - two on each side near the front and one under the coin dish at the rear (remove a plastic tab to get to it).

      Pull up on the park brake. Remove the leatherette cover - it unclips and slides over the shift lever (if you've removed the knob). This exposes the adjustment nut. You will probably have to back off the brake to get the console over the lever. Count the threads showing before you back it off - so you can restore it to the safe setting when you put things back together. Don't forget - or you won't have a park brake!! Back the nut off until it allows the brake handle to go almost vertical. Now lift the console off the shift assembly and set it aside. You will have to reach under and unclip the wire that connects to the cigar lighter power jack. There is a tab you squeeze to unlock it.

      There are four bolts that hold the shift assembly to the floor. Remove them. Carefully lift the shift assembly off the floor and lay it on its left side. This will expose the screws that hold the solenoid in place. Remove them and lift the old solenoid off the shift assembly. Put the new solenoid in place and screw it in place.

      Turn the shift lever onto the other side. You will need to partly remove the black shift bezel (the part that surrounds the lever) in order to get the old switch out of its hole. The bezel is held in place with metal clips. Very carefully pull the bezel back about 1/2". That should give enough clearance to pull the switch out. If the tabs are broken it will come out easily. If not - you may have to slide a blade alongside to retract the switch. Put the new one in its place.

      I haven't given details, but make sure the cables and wires are routed as they were. Mine had a tie wrap that held the wires in place.

      Then basically put it all back together as you took it apart.

      Make sure that you reset the brake adjuster to its original position.

      Hopefully this is helpful to someone else.

    10. #10
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      Glad to hear that the instructions were useful!

      Thanks for posting - it is always nice to know that it helped someone on their way!



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