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    Thread: Crank pulley bolt removal - another way

    1. #1
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      Crank pulley bolt removal - another way

      Although I don't think this will appeal to many folks, but I'm posting it because I believe in trying to share information. These auto forums have been hugely helpful to me, and I'd like to return the favor whenever possible. This came about because I personally don't care for any of the other ways of removing and installing the crankshaft pulley (aka harmonic balancer) bolt, for an Aveo automatic tranny. But I was really impressed with the design that Honda uses when I did the timing belt job on my daughters Civic. Their method uses an insert built into the crank pulley itself, which provides the way to lock the pulley while removing the bolt. So this method is a home-brewed version of the Honda approach. I'm sure that those using the typical methods of handling this job will continue to use them, and I'm not trying to convince anyone to switch to this if they've had success with something else. But if anyone is looking for an alternative approach, you might want to consider this. I was very pleased how it worked out, and now wouldn't consider doing it any other way. So FWIW, here's how it goes.

      The first pic below shows most of what's needed. On top is a standard Honda 50mm crank pulley bolt removal tool, which costs around $20. in the middle are 4 metal locking tabs. These tabs slide into the 4 open slots on the back, outside edge of the pulley. They are 1.5" wide, which is slightly less than the width of the slots, resulting in a snug but not binding fit. The stuff on the bottom is a bunch of miscellaneous pieces of metal, which are used to fill in the gaps, as shown in the pics to follow.

      The second pic shows the tabs inserted into the slots in the pulley. The one on the top left is partially out of the slot to show how they fit into the slots.

      The third pic is with the pulley removal tool inserted into the opening formed by the tabs. This fit is just snug enough to require the tool to be tapped into place with a small hammer. It's immediately obvious from this pic that this is not yet a solid arrangement. The tabs form a square, and would not stop the hex-shaped tool from turning.

      In the fourth pic, the key to stopping the tool from moving is the extra pieces of metal, which are inserted into the various openings. Although this looks kludge, it's highly effective in locking the pulley tool into place. The 4 tabs are pinned into the pulley slots, and the extra metal pieces bridge the gaps and completely lock the tool into place and prevent it from rotating inside of the pulley. It's essentially a simulated hex opening, and was rock solid for both the bolt removal and also the reinstall of 80', 30,15.

      The final pic shows the full setup using 1/2" extension, breaker bar, and a jack stand to keep everything steady. And although it's hard to see, there is another breaker bar which is attached to the pulley removal tool, anchored at an angle to the ground.


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      The only issue i have with your method is that you are using the rubber dampener as the holder. Al those "sharp" pieces of metal can cut the rubber and lead to failure of the pulley.


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      Quote Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit View Post
      The only issue i have with your method is that you are using the rubber dampener as the holder. Al those "sharp" pieces of metal can cut the rubber and lead to failure of the pulley.
      No, actually these 4 slots in the crank pulley are not located in the rubber dampener area, and are solid metal on all sides. The tabs I built dont touch any of the rubber area. I get the feeling that someone designed them in to allow for a countering tool to be used. It would be a simple thing for someone with good metal fabricating equipment to build 4 custom fit inserts, which would then allow the pulley to accept either a square or hex-shaped countering tool, depending on how the inserts were shaped.
      An opportunity there for someone to make a few bucks.
      Last edited by avguy; 07-08-2013 at 12:39 PM.

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      Should I keep it? Lola's Avatar
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      It would be awesome if a tool maker made one of those for us...

      One method I've used alot and I mean alot! is to pull #1 Spark Plug and Rotate the crank left from #1 TDC from the compression stroke. Very Important! You can usually watch the piston travel down than stop through the spark plug hole. Than shove that cylinder full of soft rope. It's easy every time. After you can't get anymore rope in the hole that you can torque the Crank Bolt to spec. The crank will rotate a bit, the piston will travel up the cylinder and squish the soft rope against the head and the shut Exhaust valve (because it's on the compression stroke) and the engine is now locked in a safe manner. After the bolt is torqued you can turn the crank left a bit again and pull the rope out.

      Or if you need to loosen the Crank Bolt it's the same but on the right side of #1 TDC. Pull #1 Spark plug and turn it right till you hit the compression stroke. Rotate the crank past Top Dead Center to the right and watch the piston travel down the cylinder (Power Stroke). Shove if full of rope and turn the bolt left till it squishes the rope against the head and shut valves... gets tight... than backs out.

      Manual guys have it easy. Just put it in 5th, Yank the E-brake and do it to it.
      Last edited by Lola; 07-24-2013 at 09:57 PM.

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      I've also used an old serp belt to buffer the jaws of a big channel lock to help hold, or even just an old belt itself as a "noose" per say with a tool wedged in the other loop/end/vice grips/etc to stop it from turning. Be careful, belts can stretch, spring, and break. Happy improvising

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      i used an impact, probably not recommended but had it off in about 10 seconds

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      I'll keep it and add a turbo Aveo5_boy's Avatar
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      To remove the pulley I used an impact gun and to install the pulley (automatic trans) I wrapped the pulley with a bicycle tire tube a few times then used a chain wrench over the tube. This method works great because of the grip from the rubber not making it slip and it protects the pulley from damage using the chain wrench.

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      yeah mine is a manual, i left it in gear and had a helper step on the brake.





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