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About LinkBacksthere is a fuse in the side of the dash for the 09 aveo for the drl. Just put a switch in there and you will have what you want.
there is a fuse in the side of the dash for the 09 aveo for the drl. Just put a switch in there and you will have what you want.
Nope, there isn't. I looked, and consulted the owner's manual. I also went to the online factory service manual and apparently there is no fuse that controls only the drl function. I suspect the circuit would be run from Engine Fuse 9, which also controls things like parking lights. The wiring schematics show a "park relay (w/drl)" but if there is an actual relay they don't say where it is located.Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
ah, yes there is, i disabled my drl this way, and so have several other members.
it is even labelled "DRL" on the cover.
What year is yours?
Believe me, it isn't that way on my '09. (If it were, I wouldn't be asking.)
mine is a 2009, its labelled "NA DRL" on the sticker, i pulled it, DRLs went off, nothing else happened.
the sticker:
does yours not have it? Sorry so large, cannot resize iphone pictures...
<sigh> I guess I'm becoming blind, or brain dead, or both.You are absolutely right. I feel like an idiot!
Now I'm trying to figure how I missed it. The same diagram of the fuse panel is shown in the owner's manual that comes with the car, and also in the official service manual. That means I missed it three times, not just once.
It was the "NA" in the "NA DRL" label that threw me. Also, everything else is spelled out in plain English in their table describing function, except that one, which is just repeated as "NA DRL circuit".
How could I be so easily fooled? I guess I'm 'abbreviationally challenged'. :P Thank you for being patient and helping me.
Now, since you're so smart... (I'm only joking!)maybe you can figure out how I might remove the headrest from the rear seat. [-o< Supposedly you just push the button and pull it up and off. Nope, ain't gonna happen. It won't come off.
stands for : "north american daytime running light"[
How could I be so easily fooled? I guess I'm 'abbreviationally challenged'. :P Thank you for being patient and helping me.
Now, since you're so smart... (I'm only joking!)
i had trouble taking my headrest out the first time too. after leaning the seat forward so it didn't hit the ceiling it eventually came out, i don't recall what i did exactly and i would go try if it didn't mean taking out a car seat.
try locking it in the highest position and releasing the button, then repress the button and pull on it?
Yeah, that's painfully obvious to me now! (For some reason "NA" was glossing over as 'not applicable' in my mind.)stands for : "north american daytime running light"
AHA! I've got it! I'll post the result in the 'How to' section.i had trouble taking my headrest out the first time too. after leaning the seat forward so it didn't hit the ceiling it eventually came out, i don't recall what i did exactly and i would go try if it didn't mean taking out a car seat.
try locking it in the highest position and releasing the button, then repress the button and pull on it?
This solution turned out to be so simple and elegant (and easy) that I'm proud to share the the details.
Now that we know where the fuse is, adding an on-off switch for the DRL's is a piece of cake:
Materials needed: 2 male spade terminals, some 14 gauge wire, an inline fuse holder with 15 amp fuse, and a suitable toggle switch that can handle 15 amps and be dash mounted.
First, remove the fuse and save it for use as a spare fuse. The top contact in the fuse panel is the hot leg (not that it matters much, but it's good to know). You will need a bench grinder and/or a file to cut down and shape each male spade you will be using so it is the exact same size as one of the flat prongs on the fuse. That means cutting or grinding off about half of the spade, accordingly.
Crimp or solder one modified spade terminal onto one wire (about 8-10" long) that goes to the switch. Do the same with the other spade terminal that will lead to one leg of the fuse holder. Check to see that your altered spades will plug into the fuse panel slots securely. The other leg of the inline fuse holder wiring runs to the switch. [attachment=2:1ul4n8ee]wiring.JPG[/attachment:1ul4n8ee]
Drill your hole for the switch to the left of the dashboard lighting intensity control. That's an empty and convenient spot. (Caution: The dash lighting control has a good-sized connector mounted directly behind the empty-looking, black area of the silvered panel - and the area to the right of the silvered panel has a vertical mold rib in it - so avoid both those areas and do what is easiest instead!) [attachment=0:1ul4n8ee]switch.JPG[/attachment:1ul4n8ee]
Drill the hole (see photo), mount the switch, plug your two little, modified spade connectors into the slots where the original fuse was removed, tuck in your new fuse wiring, and you are all done. [attachment=1:1ul4n8ee]fuse panel.JPG[/attachment:1ul4n8ee]There you have it - a substitute fuse and switch wiring setup that is a plug & play application.
The beauty of it is that this requires no cutting into the original wiring, and if needed you can simply unplug this modified wiring addition and reinstall the original fuse.
I LOVE simple solutions!
im sorry if you guys frown on bring old topics up.
thanks for posting what you did on this and the pictures. im definitely gonna be doing this. rather have the option of turning it on then not having it at all.
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