•  
    Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
    Results 11 to 20 of 26

    Thread: front strut bar

    1. #11
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      465
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      Why not have the Strut tower caps bolt to the mounting plate of the strut bar, tieing the two in together. Thus creating the bond you guys are talking about?



    2. #12
      Guest
      I would go for the holes in the the actual sheet metal of the strut towers but the effect is the same as being attached to the strut bolts. Either way the handling of the car will be improved

      We'll determine witch way our strut bar will be made once we got that test car in the shop

    3. #13
      Almost time to do my timing belt
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Posts
      1,524
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
      Quote Originally Posted by RedGTZ
      I would go for the holes in the the actual sheet metal of the strut towers but the effect is the same as being attached to the strut bolts. Either way the handling of the car will be improved

      We'll determine witch way our strut bar will be made once we got that test car in the shop
      already done this and now its going to be lame because everyone else is getting the same thing now so i want to improve the design to work the best it can.....

    4. #14
      Almost time to do my timing belt
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Posts
      1,524
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
      Quote Originally Posted by whiteraven
      Why not have the Strut tower caps bolt to the mounting plate of the strut bar, tieing the two in together. Thus creating the bond you guys are talking about?
      thats what i was talking about...use the two holes in the sheet metal and the threaded rod but you have to take the nut off and the black thing the nut sits down in....

    5. #15
      Almost time to do my timing belt
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Posts
      1,524
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Audacity Racing
      If you make the strut bar a permenant fixture (i.e. don't take it off on teh weekends) you shouldn't have a problem with it eating tee threads. That's an integral part of the strut anyway, so when you replace them you get a brand new shiny threaded surface.


      All my rear bars for the Lanos sit on the threads without a problem
      yea but in the front there is another nut just on the other side of the sheet metal that holds the spring on...so if you damage the thread you wont be able to get you springs off, so unless you plan on changing springs with new struts i would use something to protect it.

    6. #16
      Guest
      Quote Originally Posted by AVE0SAM
      Quote Originally Posted by Audacity Racing
      If you make the strut bar a permenant fixture (i.e. don't take it off on teh weekends) you shouldn't have a problem with it eating tee threads. That's an integral part of the strut anyway, so when you replace them you get a brand new shiny threaded surface.


      All my rear bars for the Lanos sit on the threads without a problem
      yea but in the front there is another nut just on the other side of the sheet metal that holds the spring on...so if you damage the thread you wont be able to get you springs off, so unless you plan on changing springs with new struts i would use something to protect it.
      if there is a nut on, it will re-groove teh threads. Or go to Harbo Freight and buy a $20 tap and die

    7. #17
      Guest
      Given i work in a tire shop that does a lot of suspension work and have done some suspension work myself on my project car. I can see one problem with this...attaching to the threaded rod has two problems...one this rod is the upper pivot for your front suspension since there are no upper ball joints in these cars. two..its in a bushing for a reason..and this is to serve reason one and to allow some flexability.

    8. #18
      Guest
      thats the hole purpose of the strut bar to eleminate the flex and have the yaw and sway of the car the same on both sides.

    9. #19
      Still love my daily driver
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      A Sinful Land
      Posts
      605
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
      I did the bolt top to bolt top thing on the back of my lanos and would highly NOT recommend it.

      Imagine this, as you turn in to a hard corner the top of the inside wheel pushes in, you can see this in any old car as it rounds a bend. Well that is going to transfer to the other side of the car as well pushing the top OUT. so on a right hand turn you have the inside of the tire gripping on the right and the outside of the tire gripping on the left.

      I tried it both ways and with the bar on the car was basically unsafe. In the rain it was basically a drift machine. On the track I had it completely sideways at the top of the hill at willow springs, opposite lock and into the gas just to try to get it straight. I did but the rest of the day I had to go a lot slower than I should have around that particular turn to keep the car from rotating.

      I would also worry about the extra stress on the bolts, but hey its your car.

    10. #20
      Guest
      Pillowballs in in the works...





    Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •