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    Thread: Oil leaking into spark plug. Also fair brake and AC price quote?

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      Oil leaking into spark plug. Also fair brake and AC price quote?

      2007 Aveo LS is turning me into a mechanic. Noticed oil was leaking into one of the spark plugs while replacing the spark plug wires and coils. From all the online forums seemed like it was the valve cover gasket. Replaced it and cleaned out the oil from the spark plug but now there is still oil leaking into the same spark plug. My mechanic suggested that it may be the valve cover itself that warped and not giving a good seal. Got a new valve cover from Factory GM Parts and GM Accessories - Lowest Prices | GMPartsDirect.co for $100 after shipping which actually came with a gasket! (too bad I already bought a new one). Going to replace the valve cover, valve cover gasket, and spark plugs next week and will post an update.

      Also, my mechanic quoted me $257 for front brake pads and rotors and $695 for A/C compressor replacement. Does this seem fair?



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      IMO it's highly unlikely the valve cover is warped, unless a pry bar was used to remove it. And if the cover had been warped previously, there would have been a major leak and not just the typical old gasket dribble. Much more likely is that it was not torqued correctly on the reinstall. It needs to be tightened in multiple stages using a criss-cross pattern, with the final stage being done with a torque wrench (can be omitted by someone who woks on cars regularly). And there are a couple of block transition points that need a bit of RTV as well. You might consider trying to reinstall the current gasket using the 'book' method I described. If redoing it stops the leak, return the unused parts. The quotes seem about right, given what shops are charging these days. But why not do at least the brakes yourself? It's a very straightforward job.

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      Almost time to do my timing belt xintersecty's Avatar
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      agree with avguy, you need to follow the sequence for the valve cover gasket. Seriously it's plastic and plastic by definition is already warped (easily deformed). So if that means all the nuts have to be tighten exactly.

      Brakes are easy. There is a lot of tutorials on the forum.
      Please do not power off, firmware update pending.....

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      I had a leak like that on mine so I replaced the gasket and smeared some RTV around the top of the plug towers before gasket went on it (light smear of RTV black on each). I then followed the torque spec and added a smear of RTV around each spark plug hole on valve cover to spark plug well with a small flat blade screw diver and did not get sloppy. Let it dry and cleaned wells out good and replaced the plugs and installed wires. Has not leaked since and was years ago.

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      Daox (01-24-2017)

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      Hate to bring an old thread back to life but my son has been having a fairly significant oil leak and the spark plug tubes were full of oil as well. Today I removed the valve cover gasket and found small amounts of RTV sealant around the cam shaft exit on the timing belt side and also the other end. I had originally thought that this was the reason for the leaks. I cleaned all mating surfaces on the head and was planning on just using the gasket on it's own but I decided to read the service manual. lol

      As to the above comment about a certain torquing sequence, there is no such sequence in the service manual. Yes, there is a sequence for the head with multiple torques but NOT for the Valve cover. It also says to...

      "Apply a small amount of gasket sealant to the corners of the front camshaft caps and the top of the rear valve cover to cylinder head seal".

      Then put the new gasket into the valve cover and install it onto the head. Then install the valve cover bolts and torque then all to 89 in-lb.

      My question is what gasket sealant should I use?? I know not to use anything that says "gasket maker". Any suggestions?

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      The last time I put the head cover on, I did not bother with the gasket sealer. I thought it was there to hold the plastic place when you put the cover on.
      Please do not power off, firmware update pending.....

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      Quote Originally Posted by Ookpic View Post
      ... As to the above comment about a certain torquing sequence, there is no such sequence in the service manual. Yes, there is a sequence for the head with multiple torques but NOT for the Valve cover. ...
      You didn't read what I wrote very well, because there's nothing in my previous post about a torquing sequence. I did write 'book' method, which is generic, because nearly every (other) doc for any pan or cover will at least specify criss-cross tightening, and many also give a sequence. IMO, a particular sequence for most pans and covers is less important, and that any reasonable criss cross pattern will be fine.

      Regardless that it's not specified in the Aveo manual, I consider it to be a global best practice. But if you don't believe this, you're of course free to do as you please, and can tighten those bolts whatever way you want to.

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      I believe most RTVs say gasket maker. Those all work fine from my experience with them. You just don't need much, and you need a clean surface for it to seal against.

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      Quote Originally Posted by avguy View Post
      You didn't read what I wrote very well, because there's nothing in my previous post about a torquing sequence. I did write 'book' method, which is generic, because nearly every (other) doc for any pan or cover will at least specify criss-cross tightening, and many also give a sequence.

      Regardless that it's not specified in the Aveo manual, I consider it to be a global best practice. But if you don't believe this, you're of course free to do as you please, and can tighten those bolts whatever way you want to.
      Yup, you correct, I skimmed your post and mis-took 'book' method thinking you were referring to some service manual. My bad.


      Quote Originally Posted by avguy View Post
      It needs to be tightened in multiple stages using a criss-cross pattern, with the final stage being done with a torque wrench


      This is where I mis-took what you said. The cover only torques to 90 in-lb which is so low that I thought you were referring to the head when you said multiple tightening and final torque with torque wrench.

      Thanks!

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      Quote Originally Posted by Daox View Post
      I believe most RTVs say gasket maker. Those all work fine from my experience with them. You just don't need much, and you need a clean surface for it to seal against.
      Cleaned, wiped and put some Victor Reinz REINZOSIL Gasket Sealant where it says in the service manual. I also added a small smear around the spark plug tubes just for a little extra there.

      Thanks!





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