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    Thread: dash lights not working (andrewkittens solved: junction block burnt)

    1. #51
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Just wanted to say "Thanks" for these posts: I just had the burnt junction connector issue and saved myself a trip to the shop. In my case, 2006 Aveo. Dash lights and passenger side running and tail light went out. Connector in the fuse box looked OK from the top but I popped it out thanks to this forum and here's what it looked like:Name:  burnt.jpg
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    2. #52
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      I had to fix this tonight, in single digit weather (thank God for garages). I decided to go with soldering the wires together instead of a new "splicer" box. Trouble is, I couldn't easily find a diagram for this, and I had 6 brown wires (3 with white lines), 3 purple (1 white line) and one green.

      Then I found the following link:

      SIDE JOB: Chevy Aveo lights not working Acura Integra Tips and DIY

      It is a lifesaver. Good luck if you chose to go this route. It worked for me.

    3. #53
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      Quote Originally Posted by PapaVanTwee View Post
      "...Then I found the following link:

      SIDE JOB: Chevy Aveo lights not working Acura Integra Tips and DIY

      It is a lifesaver. Good luck if you chose to go this route. It worked for me."
      You've got THAT right! Thank you for posting this link! I started having this / these problems a couple of weeks ago and when I finally found this thread and started reading it, I thought "Oh my God, what's it going to take to get this figured out AND fixed?" I saw that andrewKittens had determined WHAT the problem was, but where's the fix? And then this - nothing short of a miracle. This past Sunday I used this instruction sheet and from start to finish I was done in 2 hours! And I agree - the wiring may be different, but the idea is the same - however many wires you have in each of the groups (7, 4, or 3) the wires in that group need to be soldered together.
      AND, seeing how many people have this problem, why hasn't Chevrolet / General Motors done ANYthing about it?!? You'd think they would at least send each of us a bowtie keychain or SOMEthing...
      Thanks to all of you who contributed to this (and other) thread. This isn't the first time Aveo Forum info has made my life easier / better. But that's another comment...

    4. #54
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      I happened upon a friend's car that was having electrical problems, and I can't resist an opportunity to solder some wires.
      This troubleshooting guide was written about a 2005 Chevrolet Aveo. The Chevy Aveo is also the Pontiac Wave, Suzuki Swift and Daewoo Kalos. This problem may also affect 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2007 and 2008 models.
      SYMPTOMS

      • Speedometer/Instrument panel lights not working
      • Interior lights not working
      • Tail lights or brake lights not working

      CAUSE

      • S101 Splicer pack overheats and burns wiring under the hood


      HOW TO CHECK

      1. Open the hood and remove the fuse box cover
      2. Look into the fuse box at the splicer (use diagram at right, click for full size)
      3. Decide whether or not to take the fuse box apart, remove splicer and re-connect wires

      There are no other steps. It is not possible to pull the wiring out and inspect the wires for signs of burning without removing and separating the whole fuse box. The top of the S101 may be burnt and discolored, and this would be 100% confirmation that you should follow the steps provided below.
      WHAT THE DEALER WILL TELL YOU

      The fuse box wiring and main engine wire harness are all the same part, and the dealership is good at replacing whole parts. The wire harness costs six or seven hundred dollars, and don't forget labor costs.
      HOW TO TAKE IT APART

      1. Disconnect the battery (negative first), wrap the wire ends in rags, and cover the top of the battery terminals with a rag so none of your tools become conductors of its charge
      2. Remove the engine compartment fuse box cover and the 10mm nut on the fusebox ground wire in the bottom right hand corner
      3. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the fuse box in place in the engine bay
      4. Remove white and grey harness connector on the left side of the fuse box
      5. Break the splicer free from its perch in the fuse box (don't be shy, we're going to remove it completely)
      6. Separate the upper and lower halves of the fuse box while minding the electrical tape on the right side
      7. Remove the bottom of the fuse box and set it aside
      8. Twist the fuse box upside down so you can pull the splicer out from underneath and assess the situation


      HOW TO FIX IT

      The concept here is to remove the splicer and join the wires together with a soldering iron instead. The splicer exists to connect the 14 wires in 3 groups. Unfortunately, its design is prone to failure. The following diagram shows which wires to solder together using three colors. Click for full size.


      1. Cut 7 wires off the row of the splicer that contains
        1. Green with yellow stripe
        2. Brown
        3. Green
        4. Brown
        5. Green with yellow stripe
        6. Brown
        7. Green with yellow stripe

      2. Solder all 7 of these wires together
      3. Cut 4 wires off the other side
        1. Purple with white stripe
        2. Brown with white stripe
        3. Brown with white stripe
        4. Brown with white stripe

      4. Solder all 4 of these wires together
      5. Cut the last 3 wires from the splicer
        1. Purple
        2. Purple
        3. Purple with white stripe

      6. Solder all 3 of these wires together
      7. Cover everything in electrical tape
      8. Put your car back together while connecting your battery last (positive first)

      OPTIONAL STEPS

      1. Destroy the splicer
      2. Start car
      3. Use lights

    5. #55
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    6. #56
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      Have this same issue.Instrument panel dark and what is weird is the same passenger side taillight out.Wil look at it tomorrow.





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