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Thanks everyone, it definitely smelled fishy to me, but I didn't have the mechanical knowledge behind me to deflect their line of reason. If the car ran for 10 to 15 minutes, in my book, the head is clean, not the problem. Something in the timing system loosened up or something.
I have now taken the step of working with an automotive forensics guy. He is going to go over the car and let me know exactly what is going on and put all the documents together for possible court action.
It is ridiculous to me that they would rather spend their time, as Jimzdat so eloquently put it "trying to force combustion byproduct into your rectum" rather than just fixing what they messed up.
This is definitely not making me into a satisfied customer and is forcing me to go a route I would rather not take, but will take if needed.
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. The pressure from the oil is only just enough to remove whatever clearance there is inthe valve train, but not enough to actually open the hydraulic valve itself
http://www.sbintl.com/tech_library/a...fters_work.pdf
In other words, with the right lifters without oil they might click a little until oil fills them and pressure builds, a few seconds.
If the valves are good and the gears aligned than tightening the cam bolts should not have cause a leak.
On the head bolts, how do you know? I have replaced them with new every time I change a head but looking at the bolts after torquing them they have marks, they are stretched so how do you know? Does the second mechanic have a Ouija board? In fact how do you know the head bolts are new from the vendor? Off ebay chances are they are from China and who knows no days?
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All, went to the shop with the automotive forensics expert and found that the head was bad from the reman company. Just lost $1,200 in repair and testing fees. I am done.. Will post more as it becomes available. No more $$ to fix so I am done.
Thank you to all who supported me these past 5 months!!
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Sounds to me like the company that remanufactured the head owes you the money you've lost so far... if it was me I'd be looking at taking legal action against them.
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They warranty the part, not the labor unfortunately.
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That sucks...I would just swap the head myself, it's really not that hard... just follow directions.
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3 Attachment(s)
Anyone have an understanding of how a brand new remanufactured head that only has 10 to 15 minutes of run time on it would have this type of issue:
Attachment 11021Attachment 11022
This was the motor after the head was put on, and I had it at another shop where they told me the head was put on incorrectly by the other shop.
Attachment 11023
Forensics expert told me that from all that he could determine (after the car spending 1 month at their shop **My fault**) the shop did the job correctly.
I wonder if in the intervening month, they might have done something to it to not be found culpable. Not sure.. only a hunch.
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oh man that really sucks. I am so glad when I got my head done, it was done correctly. I did the check for warp myself and got the valves done and a machine shop. Works like a charm. Buying a re-manufactured head should have worked. And the supplier should have been able warranty their own work.
personally, the shop should stand behind the part and labor. In other words they did not check the head, got lazy, and just fought instead of doing the right thing. Fix it and make it work.
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Was a warranty replacement Head, shop did not provide it.
I am out and will need to junk or sell the car.
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I don't have a shop manual but is that oil relief the last one? It could be junk that was flushed thru the head but I'd need a oil flow chart to tell.
Sorry about your loss..