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    Thread: Rally cross help.

    1. #1
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Rally cross help.

      I have a 2008 Ls aveo that I have been using as my DD and hunting/work rig. I have been using it off road monthly for 2 years now and would like to build it up ass a rally car.
      I don't plan to race but would like to ad some power and pep and really get it moving. I figure there's no speed limit on desert dirt roads so it might be fun to open it up every now and then. My plan is to build up suspension some, possibly do a 2 inch body lift to fit bigger tires, upgrade brakes, if I can I'd like to add a low psi turbo nothing more that 4 psi. Change injectors and then change out intake and exhaust then finally ad skid plates.
      Question 1. Has any one done a body lift? Advice on best way to get bigger tires with out compromising steering/handling or cutting the fenders?
      2. What kind of suspension should j put under it? Will suspension kits give my a little more hieght?
      3. As far as the engine what can I do to increase power without dropping I 2000$ to the engine?
      I want power enough to get me through sticky mud or steep hills. Is there a turbo kit or do I have to fab one to fit? As far as injectors cans heads etc. What have you fellows been using and is it worth spending the money on
      Or I'd there a better way to give it more pep?
      I know it's not cost effective but it's cheaper in the dhort term to piece it together the drop 8 grand all at once on something. Any advice would be appreciated. This will be my first major build from the ground up. Anything to save time and a few pennies is great.



    2. #2
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      1.You can't do a body lift, as it is a unibody car. That said you can do different strut mounts, longer struts, spacers on the k frame, and some more things. I would try a vw jerm style drop plate to lift the rear. I had hi make rear disk brake adapter plates for my car.. The depth of the wheel well won't be the issue, it will be turning, your probably going to need to cut/trim something to turn..

      2.There are no kits, you can hunt parts by sizes.

      3. there are philosophy choices, if you are going to run the car hard, I would change the transmission gearing and clutch and then lighten the car. The more money / modification you do to the engine, it is more expensive to maintain when you race and break it.

      You need to look at the rules of who you are racing for. Most sanctioning racing leagues do not allow certain modifications and class changes. If you are going out there on your own and just running, make sure it is legal and you won't kill anyone. Wear a helmet, and think about a roll cage.


    3. #3
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Thanks I'll poke atound and see what I can piece together for suspension. I figured on having to trim some plastic to turn but I was also thinking I will lose an inch or so with skid plates so I'd like to recover it. I think I'll check into the struts snd strut braces for now. As far as racing this will be my mock up car. Do all my learning in this and if I like it the step up. I live in utah. Lots of dirt roads in the desert, I don't plan on flying but it's fun to blow out the carbon some times.

    4. #4
      The Lowest Static Aveo Melveo's Avatar
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      Coilovers will raise the car up if you set them right. im also mocking up a skidplate also since im one of the lowest around.Name:  IMG_0655.jpg
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    5. #5
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      Sounds like you want a beater, not a rally car.

      In order to do a lift, you NEED to look at the articulation ranges of: The drive axles, the tie rods, the control arms, and the rear beam relative to shock. All of these components move in an ARC, relative to their mounting point on the BODY, as the suspension compresses and rebounds. You NEED to determine maximum ranges or else you'll encounter binding.

      That said, I've fit 185/65R14 tires without and rubbing throughout the steering range. The only rub was the inside of the tire on the fender well at full compression.

      Don't bother with suspension. Just make sure it's not worn out. You want TRAVEL for what you're doing. You're not going to get it unless you have something custom made ($2k+).

      Don't bother with the engine or a turbo. You can get into PLENTY of trouble with 85whp. If you're getting bogged down, select a lower gear. If you're still getting bogged down in a lower gear, you're driving through something that the car can't handle. How much power does a Samurai have? One of the best little 4x4s with an anemic little engine. You don't need power.

      Frank Sprongl PROFESSIONALLY rallied a swift+ (rebadged aveo) up in Canada. The car ran stock EVERYTHING except for safety equipment. He did just fine. You'll be fine putting around the woods.

      So what SHOULD you do?

      1. Drive it and don't sweat the other stuff.
      2. If you feel like you're going to bang crap on the underbody, where important things live... like the oil pan... fab up a skid plate.

      Want to know a secret about rally? Other than the deep wallet guys, most of the cars are enormous piles of crap. The cage, seats, tires, and belts would often be valued higher than the sum of the other parts. Lots of folks running OEM suspensions and anemic underpowered engines. Most rallyists make their priorities: 1. safety. 2. reliability. 3. cost 4. gofast





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